Chinanews.com client, Beijing, November 10 (Reporter Song Yucheng) From a few ancient comics by the comic author @oldxian to the outfits in the dress-up game "Shining and Warm", to the costumes posted on the Internet by actor Xu Kai Taking selfies. Recently, the topic of ancient costumes has repeatedly become a topic of discussion among netizens.
Many netizens have such a question: "Is this'Hanbo' or'Hanbo'?"
Weibo screenshot
Online clothing battle
On November 1, comic blogger @old first published a set of "ancient mashup" comics on social media.
Immediately some foreign netizens questioned that "the hats and clothing in the picture are all Korean."
Also at the beginning of this month, after the South Korean web server of the game "Sparkling Warmth" was launched, a set of suits was announced due to the dispute between "Hanfu" and "Hanbok", which sparked discussion.
After the game's disputed suit was removed from the shelves, some accounts repeatedly made excessive comments about "humiliating China".
In the end, the game closed its operations in South Korea.
Weibo screenshot
A few days ago, actor Xu Kai posted his costume image in the new drama "Shang Shi" on social media, but was questioned by netizens as a "Korean costume TV drama".
Recently, the producer of the play, Yu Zheng, responded, "This proper Hanfu of the Ming Dynasty", but "has been called'Hanbo' by the uneducated".
So, why are these ancient costumes controversial?
And why is there a dispute between "Hanbo" and "Hanbo"?
Speaking from the big hat
This actually starts with the big black hat.
The reason why some people think that the ancient costumes of the Korean peninsula in the paintings or photos is mainly because of this hat.
Many images in North Korea and South Korea's costume dramas wear similar hats.
This makes many people think that similar hats may be traditional costumes on the Korean Peninsula.
The image of Koreans in "Sancai Tuhui" in Ming Dynasty.
So, how did the hat appear in the official uniform system of the Korean Peninsula?
We can find the answer in the "History of Goryeo" written by Zheng Linji during the Joseon Dynasty.
"History of Korea" book and shadow.
It clearly states that “the Eastern Kingdom has followed the local customs since the Sanhan Yizhang, until the King Taizong of Xinluo asked to follow the Tang Yi, and the system of the crown clothing is slightly like China.”
It was only during the Yizong period of Goryeo that it was "mixed with the Tang system", which included the crown clothes of Wang and Baiguan.
"Since the beginning of the incident, the shaved braids and the Hu clothing have been used for almost a hundred years." In the Ming Dynasty, "the cultural relics of clothes and crowns have been renewed, and they are very old."
It can be seen from this piece of historical data that the changes in the Korean peninsula’s ancient crown and clothing are closely related to the change of dynasties in China and its attitude towards China.
Li hats are no exception.
Korean shave and easy clothes
Specifically, when Limao became the official uniform of the Korean Peninsula, it was related to the change of dynasties and political situation at the end of Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of Ming Dynasty.
This change began during the reign of King Chungyeol of Goryeo.
In the 13th century, the increasingly powerful Mongolia gradually came into contact with Goryeo.
In 1231, Mongolia began to use troops against Korea.
From then on until 1259, the two sides continued to fight.
In 1259 AD, Mongolia and Goryeo reached a settlement.
At that time, the Goryeo prince Wang Xi went to Mongolia to meet Kublai Khan.
After Wang Yu came to the throne, it was Goryeo Wonjong. His son, King Zhongye, Wang Yan later became the first Goryeo king to marry a Mongolian princess.
Data map: The bronze statue of Kublai Khan in the Yuan Shangdu site.
Photo by Liu Wenhua
It was against this background that after Wang Yan ascended the throne and became the King of Korea, he began to promote haircuts and easy clothes on the Korean Peninsula.
"History of Goryeo" records that when King Chungyeol was reigning, "all the people in the territory were dressed in national clothes and shaved."
In other words, the hairstyle and clothes are based on the dress of the Mongolians in the Yuan Dynasty.
The official uniforms of the Yuan Dynasty that had various forms of hats naturally affected the Korean Peninsula.
In the sixth year of King Gongmin of Goryeo (1357 AD), the history books said that his civil and military officials wrote "black-clothed green hat".
This shows that the form of hats has entered the Korean official uniform system.
"National Treasure" clothing consultant Dong Jin pointed out in an interview with a reporter from Chinanews.com that because of the Gaoli Fengmeng Yuan Zhengshuo at that time, the hat also appeared in his official uniform.
This kind of hat gradually developed into the black big hat in ancient costumes in Korean and Korean film and television dramas.
A still from the South Korean historical drama "Six Dragons Flying to the Sky", which is based on the historical background of the end of the Goryeo Dynasty and the founding of Lee's Joseon.
The Change and Unchanging of Clothing in Yuan and Ming Dynasties
In the 16th year of King Gongmin of Goryeo (1367 AD), Goryeo promulgated detailed regulations on the color of hats and jewels worn by officials at all levels.
It is worth mentioning that this year is the 27th year from Yuan to Zheng, when China is at the end of Yuan Dynasty.
The following year, in 1368 AD, Zhu Yuanzhang proclaimed himself emperor, changed Yuan Hongwu, and captured the capital (now Beijing). The Yuan Dynasty's rule in the Central Plains basically ended.
In the context of the rise of the Ming Dynasty, the new regulations of King Gongmin of Goryeo regarding official costumes were actually “retro measures” taken at the request of the ministers, which had a clear tendency to weaken the influence of the Mongol Yuan.
Only from today's perspective, the "retro" this time is not complete: Although the officials of Korea have re-issued since King Gongmin, there are still traces of Mongolian Yuan in the official uniforms.
Obviously, at that time, the top of the hat was decorated with jewelry, which is obviously a continuation of the customs of the nomads in northern China in history.
During the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, Chinese official uniforms also changed accordingly.
After Zhu Yuanzhang established the Ming Dynasty, he tried to eliminate the influence of the Mongolian service system in the Yuan Dynasty.
However, from the perspective of subsequent historical development, this requirement has not been truly implemented.
Not only did the Ming dynasty official uniform develop its own distinctive "buzi", some of the previous dynasty's costume characteristics were also difficult to eliminate.
The big hat in the "Sancai Tuhui" of the Ming Dynasty.
Taking the big hat as an example, this kind of clothing originated from northern nomads is still reflected in the book "Sancai Tuhui" written during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty.
Dong Jin told reporters that although officials also wore big hats at the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, they later became mainly used to mark their identities such as supervising students and juren; in addition, big hats were also used for horse riding and travel due to their functions.
In the Ming Dynasty, the use of hat top accessories became smaller and smaller than that of the Yuan Dynasty; the hat beads below were completely cancelled during the Ming Dynasty.
"Zhu Zhanji Traveling Music Picture" in the Palace Museum's collection, the middle of the painting is Zhu Zhanji.
The painting depicts Ming Xuanzong Zhu Zhanji's casual wear and brim hat watching various sports performances in the imperial garden.
Screenshot of the official website of the Palace Museum
"Shooting Daming" and Daming's Attitude
After Emperor Yuan Shun escaped, the influence of the Ming Dynasty on neighboring countries further increased.
The Ming Dynasty's gift to the Korean Peninsula also began at this time.
At the beginning of the founding of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang bestowed it with crown clothes, sacrificial clothes, Wenqi Leo, and Jinxiu Rongqi.
Under the suzerainty system at that time, giving service was an important item in the diplomatic activities of the two countries.
Since then, Li Chenggui, who replaced Goryeo and founded Lee Korea, even put forward the slogan of "Assault on Daming's clothes and ban Hufu" in North Korea.
These practices undoubtedly played an important role in the evolution of the Korean peninsula's crown dress.
A still from the Korean historical drama "Dae Jang Geum", whose story is set in the Joseon period of Lee's.
However, in history, Zhu Yuanzhang does not seem to be enthusiastic about this proposal on the Korean Peninsula.
According to historical records, the Korean envoy Changshou once said to Zhu Yuanzhang, "The country has been listed twice for clothes and clothes, without permission." "The king's court, sacrificial, and accompanying ministers are all divided into ranks. The old way. Although the officials wore li'er, the people all wore the hats that were usually yin'er in the original dynasty. These people are uneasy."
Obviously, Goryeo, who had established contact with the Ming Dynasty, was already changing the clothes of Daming at this time, but the casual clothes were still the same as before.
Portrait of Zhu Yuanzhang.
Source: Screenshot of the paper "Talking about the Mystery of Zhu Yuanzhang's Portrait"
Zhu Yuanzhang's attitude towards this is very open-
According to the "History of Goryeo", he told the Korean envoys Longevity: "This is not hurt, but Zhao Wuling, Wang Hufu riding and shooting, will not harm him as a virtuous emperor. I only had to bring a hat as it was. I thought about it: I drove him out, but China followed him like this. After a long time, the scholars did not look good in their writings, so I changed them. Nowadays, I don’t need a hat to cover the sun and wind and rain. Boyan King Timur sometimes I used to go with the court and sacrificial costumes. Now, if you want to do it like this, he wears the official hats and the people's headscarves. Why should I just say it? "
"Comply with what generation system?"
Hundreds of years after the conversation between the Korean envoy and Zhu Yuanzhang, in the 30th year of Qianlong (1765 AD), the 35-year-old Hong Dalong accompanied the Korean envoy to the Qing Dynasty.
On this day, he wore a full costume to worship the Qing Emperor. When he walked out of the Meridian Gate, many people were onlookers.
Investigate the reason, the problem lies in Hong Darong's clothes.
The official crown dress worn by the North Korean mission at that time was actually the "Da Ming crown" that they inherited that year.
But in the 30th year of Qianlong, the scholars of the Qing Dynasty seemed to have no longer recognized such costumes.
Some people in the Qing Dynasty even asked, "Which is your clothes?"
In the end, Hong Darong told the people of the Qing Dynasty, "Our clothes are all made by the Ming Dynasty."
South Korean movie "Namhansan Fortress" poster.
The background of the story is the Qing Dynasty's war against Lee Korea, which is called "Bingzi Random" in the history of the Korean Peninsula.
The characters in it can be seen in the costumes of the Korean Peninsula during the Ming and Qing Dynasties.
Back to the question at the beginning of the article.
Today, it is actually difficult for us to use simple words like "Hanfu" or "Hanbo" to define the clothing of a certain period in history.
Time does obscure memory, but the history that has happened will not change with the passage of time.
(Finish)
Reference materials:
"History of Goryeo", "Three Talents Association", "History of Chinese Costumes", "Ancient Chinese Public Clothing Opinions", "Where is Daming's Clothing Now", "The Controversy between "Huahua" and "Local Customs" of the Goryeo Dynasty, "Wonli" Uncle Nephew "Good" and the Cultural Exchange of Clothing" "Clothing and Identity: A Preliminary Study of the Use of the "Damyeong" on the Korean Peninsula in the Early Ming Dynasty" "The Influence of the Tang and Song Service System on the Early Service System of Korea" Observing the Costume Diplomacy between the Ming Dynasty and North Korea" "The "Little China Pavilion" of the Korean Envoys and the Origin of the "Little China" Consciousness in Korea"