Every day during the summer, at 6:56 am and 8:43 am, Marion Sauveur gives you an idea of a recipe to brighten up your taste buds. Tuesday, head to the Jura mountains to cook one of the region's specialties: Morbier.
Marion Sauveur, we roam all summer specialties from France. And today heading east!
Yes, in the land of morbier, this cheese made from raw cow's milk and gray skate. It has long been considered the "little brother of the Comté" because it was produced in winter, a season when the cows did not give enough milk to make Comté cheese.
At the time, we made a small cheese with the little milk obtained. And we made a second cheese the next day, which we put on the previous day. And to protect the first one, we spread a little soot on the surface. Hence the ash skate. Today, we use vegetable charcoal to make this skate which makes the peculiarity of morbier, charcoal which helps to digest and which gives no taste to the cheese.
How do we cook morbier?
In cream: a delicious recipe that is very simple to make. We start by melting 100 grams of morbier without the crust in a saucepan over low heat. It must be mixed well and it does not take on color. Once the morbier is melted, add 10 cl of fresh cream 30% fat (minimum) and let it heat one to two minutes over medium heat. Always stirring! It will thicken.
Now we are going to make an emulsion, to have only the cream of the crop. It will become very light. The trick to keeping your cream hot is to immerse your siphon in a bain-marie (50 degrees maximum). If you don't have a siphon, take a mixer arm. You immerse it in the cream, leaving the blades half airborne. And small bubbles of cream will form on the surface. All that remains is to recover them. You serve this emulsion with a chicken needle and a few chopped hazelnuts over it.
And the cream that you have left, you can use it instead of a béchamel in a croque-monsieur!
You would not have an address to advise us to taste this morbier cream without having to cook?
If you are on vacation in Pari, the Franc-Comtois Matthias Marc serves this summer an appetizer based on an air purée, a morbier cream, mounted in yellow wine and with trout eggs on top. It is simply delicious. It's at Substances, about ten minutes walk from the Champs-Elysées.
Matthias Marc's recipe
Ingredients:
For the mash
- 1 kg of potato pulp passed through a sieve
- 1 liter of fresh cream
- 1/2 liter of milk
- 500g of butter
- 11.5g agar agar
- salt
- smoking wood
For the morbier cream
- 700g of milk
- 350g of morbier
- 1 clove of garlic
- 40g of butter
- 40g of yellow wine
For dressage
- trout eggs
Production
For the mash
In a roundel, bring the milk, cream, butter and pulp to a boil. Add the agar and salt and boil for three minutes. Mix to smooth the whole. Get rid of and smoke three times. Add to the siphon.
For the morbier cream
Mix all the elements. Cook for twelve minutes at 70 degrees. And let cool.
Dressage
At the bottom of the bowl, place the morbier cream. Above, the mash in a siphon. And a few small trout eggs for color and crunch.