• BEAUTY - The best facial creams for summer according to experts

Day and night cream (or the same adding sun protection). Soap and water. Some scrub, a hydrating mask and a 'flash effect' ampoule for special occasions. And a little more. If you don't know when to apply the serum or tonic and you have no idea why and when you should be pulling retinoles, vitamin C, collagen or hyaluronic acid, you should read this ...

FOR THE DAY

"In summer, during the day, it is essential to use a high-protection, broad-spectrum sunscreen (covering UVB, UVA and other types of radiation such as visible and infrared light) as a day cream. The ideal is to enhance it with application of a previous antioxidant serum containing vitamin C, vitamin E, niacinamide or phloretin, "says Dr. Lidia Maroñas, from the International Dermatological Clinic.

You can use the same sun cream that we use to go to the beach but "it is advisable to use a specific facial that suits our needs," he adds. For example. "With a light non-comedogenic texture in the case of mixed skin; also photo-correctors that combine sunscreens with depigmenting active ingredients and / or photo-make-up, that is to say, photoprotectors with color that incorporate pigments such as iron oxide that, in addition to unifying tone, serve to prevent the appearance of facial blemishes . "

Bella Hurtado, technical director of Aromatherapy Associates, gives us more clues. "It will depend on where we are. In places with more humidity on the beach, we have the feeling that there is plenty to spare. There we will go to creams rich in humectants such as hyaluronic acid and less nutrient-dense. However, in cities like Madrid, very dry , we will be able to keep the products of the winter. If we are used to nourishing the skin and in summer we stop doing it, in those circumstances, the product may fall short. It is best to use moisturizers with SPF and antioxidants (vitamins C and E, for example), protect us. "

"The ideal moisturizer for the day should have hyaluronic acid and antioxidants that strengthen the barrier function, neutralize free radicals and, at the same time, have a light texture and fast absorption, ideal for hot days," says Martha Dias, from Caupe Brazil .

In what situations is a protection factor moisturizer sufficient ? Estefanía Nieto, technical director of Omorovicza clarifies that "if we are going to go to the beach or the pool, we should always use unique sunscreens. That is, products whose main objective is to make a sunscreen . If we are going to do a daily routine: go to work, walk on the street for a short time, etc., we can use a moisturizer with sun protection. "

VITAMIN C and COLLAGEN

Essential, experts say, in any beauty routine to illuminate dull skin or prevent the appearance of spots due to overexposure from the sun, its application raises many doubts, especially at this time of year.

"It is a water-soluble vitamin and one of the most well-known and appreciated antioxidants because it neutralizes free radicals and is not photosensitizing; it reduces wrinkles and improves skin firmness by stimulating the formation of collagen and elastin; and it reduces the formation of melanin ( spots) , reduces erythema (redness) and provides a 'natural glow', "says Martha Dias.

His advice: " Integrate serums with antioxidants (polyphenols, carotenoids and vi-tamins C and E) in the daily routine that help us neutralize the action of free radicals generated by sun exposure."

"Vitamin C can and should be used in the summer as an antioxidant serum with a combo of active ingredients that include pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic), niacinamide, phloretin or vitamin E (tocopherol)," explains Dr. Maroñas.

Rocío Escalante, expert in dermocosmetics and owner of Arbosana Farmacia, assures that her favorite anti-aging routine is " antioxidants in the morning combined with high sun protection " and adds that "we can continue using it in summer, without risks because it does not stain the skin . It is true it is a photosensitive asset, that is, it oxidizes or degrades with sunlight and this can cause us to notice the dirtiest pore. " Therefore, she recommends "do a peel one day a week."

"It is always essential for the skin, but especially in summer. With its antioxidant power, it protects it, depigments possible spots and helps to regenerate the production of collagen and elastin that can be lost due to age or exposure to the sun," he added. Estefanía Nieto, technical director of Omorovicza.

What about collagen creams? "There is no contraindication as such in using collagen creams during the summer months. However, its application has a less scientifically proven effect than other active ingredients with greater scientific support that have been shown to induce and increase the natural production of dermal collagen like vitamin C, niacinamide or proxylane, "emphasizes Dr. Maroñas, from the International Dermatological Clinic.

Raquel González, director of education for Perricone MD, shares her opinion. "I am more in favor of introducing principles (such as vitamin C) that, not that they produce collagen itself (this is not so proven to be effective), but rather that we help ourselves to synthesize this protein molecule that we are leaving generate as age progresses. "

MASKS

At this time of year more than ever, our skin is crying out for pampering to mitigate the effects of the sun, chlorine or salt.

What do the experts advise? "I like to use and recommend hydrating masks with hyaluronic acid once a week to compensate for the dryness of the skin that occurs in summer and mild exfoliating masks of the enzymatic type ," says Dr. Maroñas.

Elisabeth San Gregorio, Medik8 technical director, also touches on hyaluronic acid as a basic ingredient. "The masks that contain it are ideal. Also those of niacinamide (soothing, after exposing ourselves to the sun) and those of soothing and soft ingredients of botanical origin , such as the snow lotus and the water lotus."

Martha Dias de Caupe Brasil, is committed to treatments that provide us with " essential fatty acids (Omegas 3, 6 and 9) that increase the skin's ability to trap moisture and preserve elasticity, health and softness; phytosterols that strengthen the superficial layers of the dermis and have an extraordinary healing capacity, and beta-carotene (precursor of vitamin A) that stimulates the renewal of the skin exposed to the sun, contributes to the promotion of the production of collagen and elastin, and unifies the tone ".

AT NIGHT

"After facial cleansing, it is advisable to apply cellular transformers and retexturizing actives that act at the dermal level to repair damage caused by the sun. These are mainly retinol and derivatives and alpha hydroxy acids, " says Lidia Maroñas.

If we already use retinol, "there is no problem in maintaining even the same winter regimen because our skin will have an adapted and functionally adequate skin barrier." If, on the contrary, we decide to start using these active ingredients during the summer, " we should do it gradually, with less concentration and fewer days a week (2-3 nights) to make a progressive adaptation and well tolerated by the skin ", Add.

"I like to take care of the skin with more powerful ingredients at an anti-aging level and it is the perfect time to use retinol. As in the morning, it is very important to carry out good hygiene and, above all, provide hydration, especially if we are exposed to Sun every day or we go to the beach or to a swimming pool ", indicates Silvia Oliete, director of Blauceldona.

To mitigate the effects of the sun, we must "use nutrient-rich creams (jojoba oil for example or shea butter) that return to provide the lost nutrients, as well as active ingredients that provide moisture, such as hyaluronic acid," he advises. Raquel González, director of education for Perricone MD.

Like Maroñas and Oliete, it bets on the application of retinol, after the skin adaptation process, because "it is great at this time of year because it will help reverse the damage done during the day at night."

Martha Dias from Caupe Brazil, explains how to make this adaptation. " It is advisable to start with small doses to increase them according to the tolerance and needs of the skin . In this process, it is better to avoid its application if we go to the beach or on days when we are more exposed to the sun. If we still notice that it is it irritates our skin, the most convenient thing is to postpone its use until autumn ".

Rocío Escalante, expert in dermocosmetics and owner of Arbosana Farmacia, warns that "we can continue to use retinol and other types as retinoic acid in the night routine, as long as we adjust the concentrations downward, and protect the skin by day with high sun protection. Another option is to use them every other day or 2-3 times a week. "

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