China News Service Client, Beijing, June 12th (Reporter Shangguanyun) "Qing Ping Le" and "Da Ming Feng Hua"...... Several costume plays aired in recent times have received considerable attention. In addition to the plot, the exquisite and gorgeous, or simple and elegant women's clothing, also left a deep impression on the audience.
The history of clothing can be traced back to the primitive society. Different times, clothing has different characteristics, including colors, styles and so on. In the recent popular book "Fan Dai Luo Qi: Chinese ancient women's clothing fashion", also introduced many characteristics of ancient Chinese women's clothing.
A costume history is also a cultural history.
The origin and origin of clothing
According to the "Jianluo Three Emperors" record: "There are Chaos who take out and attack leaves as clothes." That is to say, there are Chaos who teach people to make clothes from leaves and so on. Others believe that the history of costume culture started from this.
Information figure: Hanfu lovers wear Hanfu for the moon sacrifice. Xiao Yingshe
People now have various speculations about the origin of clothing: protection, decoration, and shame. A more popular statement is that in ancient times, the living environment of primitive residents was very bad, and the invention of clothing was to live better.
The style of women's clothing in the pre-Qin period was relatively simple. In the "Book of Songs", there are many works involving mulberry, silkworm, silk, linen, and clothing. The materials for clothing can be seen at this time. In terms of style, including clothes and robes, etc.
Qin and Han costumes basically follow the Warring States period, mainly in deep clothes, mainly divided into two types of Qu Fang, Straight, both men and women can wear. Han Caiyong's "Dedicated" records: "The emperor always wears clothes, and the Han clothes receive Qin."
At this time, the original women's "Qufen deep coat" is more common: the whole body is narrow, long and can be dragged to the ground, and the hem looks a bit like a "horn". After the Eastern Han Dynasty, Zhitu gradually became popular. The real skirt skirt was also found in the Han tomb.
Tang Dynasty pomegranate skirt used to be "fashion clothing"
As time goes by, the costumes of ancient women are constantly changing. The national power of the Tang Dynasty was strong, the material life was relatively rich, and women's clothing had more patterns.
In the early Tang Dynasty, women's daily fashions were generally short dresses and long skirts, inheriting the style of undergarments. Short undershirts and long skirts plus half-arms, silks and other shoes and clothes show the fashion style of Tang Dynasty women.
Data Map: Previously, the Dufu Thatched Cottage Traditional Clothing Society of Chengdu held the Tang Dynasty Hanfu and Niangyu Clothing Show to celebrate the Lantern Festival on the occasion of the Lantern Festival. An Yuanshe
"Half arm" is a short-sleeved top, but it is more popular in women's clothing in the early Tang Dynasty, and it was significantly reduced in the middle and late Tang Dynasty.
A researcher of ancient costumes once said that the basic wear of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty was a three-piece suit: skirt, shirt, and silk. In fact, before Wu Zhou and Kaiyuan, the neckline of the shirt was lowered. Such costumes are generally only worn on specific occasions, such as in palaces and boudoirs.
Most women in the Tang Dynasty liked skirts with rich colors, like "pomegranate skirts", which were quite popular with young women. "Kaiyuan Tianbao's Legacy" said that when Chang'an ladies traveled in the spring, they used "red skirts to hang each other and thought it was a feast." Bai Juyi also wrote "Dancing Pomegranate Flower Dancing Skirt".
In addition, Hu dance prevailed in the middle of Tang Dynasty. Affected by this, coupled with some other reasons, the phenomenon of "women learning make-up for hu women" has gradually appeared.
What is the appearance of the son of the Song Dynasty? Slim and narrow sleeves
Unlike the Tang Dynasty, the social customs of the Song Dynasty were more restrained, and the clothing and clothing tended to be more restrained and conservative.
Data Map: On May 23, a Chinese hanfu enthusiast was displaying the Han dynasty in Song Dynasty at the China Silk Museum. China News Service reporter Wang Gangshe
In the women's clothing of the Song Dynasty, the maids were more representative. It is a regular dress for women in the Song Dynasty, and also a regular dress next to a big dress. The style is elegant and simple, but it is also very delicate.
"Fan Dai Luo Qi: China's ancient women's clothing fashion" mentioned that the main characteristics of the Song Dynasty Baozi style are thin slim sleeves, cardigan color collar, underarm crotch and unfettered button. "Slim and narrow sleeves" also embodies the slender and beautiful Song style beauty.
Women in the Song Dynasty still wore leno shirts, but more shirts were added, or a layer of lining was added to the shirts to make them into shirts. As Li Qingzhao said in his words, "The tears melt away and the powder flowers are heavy. At first, we try to sew the shirt with gold thread."
According to reports, the majority of women's clothing in the Song Dynasty was handed over. From the paintings of the concubines of the Song Dynasty in the old collection of the Nanxun Temple, Wang Xu's "Embroidered Mirror" and other unearthed pottery figurines, royal women and ladies' clothes were handed over Mainly, the maid's clothing in the palace is mainly round neck.
Ming Dynasty's matching artifact "Bijia"
In the Ming Dynasty, after Zhu Yuanzhang unified the world, according to the tradition of the Han nationality, "inherit Zhou Han and take Tang and Song" and re-enact the costume system. Women's fashion has also begun to change.
According to some studies, the shirt skirt is a general term for the skirts and skirts of women in the Ming Dynasty. The shirt body can have various patterns as decorations. The gown is a formal coat for women of the Ming Dynasty. The style is similar to the short shirt, but the body is longer.
Data picture: The picture shows the Ming Dynasty clothing display at the establishment ceremony of Quanzhou Traditional Culture Promotion Association. Liao Jingshe
There is also a collarless cardigan, also known as "Bijia", which was originally a special clothing style for the empress in the court, and was gradually introduced to the folk. Bijia was already popular in the mid-Ming Dynasty, and was favored by young women. Artifact".
The cloak is a style worn by both men and women in the Ming Dynasty. It is said that when women wear a cape, they usually wear a vertical collar gown and a horse-faced skirt. In autumn and winter, the cape is made of animal fur to keep you warm.
In fact, with the development of society, people's clothing style is always changing. These popular costumes also precisely reflect changes in the economy, culture and other aspects of an era, and can see the social fashion at that time. (Finish)