Fire roasting, dissolving water, rubbing salt, shaking foam...
these cosmetic testing "flip operations" won't work
Guide to Beauty Avoidance
Our reporter Jin Feng
If you want beauty, what should you do without skin care or makeup? In the eyes of many beauty make-ups, today's skin care and make-up processes are not only as simple as "washing a face and applying a cream", but also involve a series of steps such as cleansing, toner, facial cream, and essence.
Before these operations, the quality of the product is of paramount importance. In order to identify the quality of the product, the method of circulating on the Internet is also varied: "The facial cleanser is roasted on fire. If the oil is splashed or roasted more like yogurt, it means that the safety factor is not high. "Shake the toner, if there is less foam, it means less nutrients." "Salt on the lipstick, rub it, if there are black particles that lead and mercury content exceeds the standard, do not buy" "Squeeze the lotion in the water, if Floating on the water means that it contains oleyl esters, which will damage the skin"... Can these simple and easy-to-use "earth recipes" help us to brighten our eyes, how should we choose the product that suits us?
Crooked operation: fire roasting facial cleanser, oil splashing is not safe
"Roasting on fire will splash oil, or the more you roast, the more it looks like yogurt. It doesn't explain the quality of the facial cleanser." Chi Bo, a professor at the State Key Laboratory of Materials and Chemical Engineering and the School of Food and Light Industry, Nanjing University of Technology, told the Science and Technology Daily reporter that Splashing oil when baking the facial cleanser on fire can only prove that the facial cleanser contains oily ingredients or emulsifiers.
Chi Bo said that some cleansing milks with strong cleaning power and more soap-based surfactants will add some grease or emulsifier. Grease can reduce the degreasing power of soap-based surfactants and make the cleansing milk softer. This kind of facial cleanser will splash oil when roasted on fire, but it does not mean that it is not safe to use this facial cleanser.
As for why the facial cleanser will roast more like yogurt, it is related to the formula of the facial cleanser. Chi Bo said that some facial cleansers have a higher degree of fineness, the moisture evaporates after fire roasting, and the molecular structure of the emulsifier is not destroyed, so it will be very thick, but this can only prove that the emulsification system is relatively stable. The time will be relatively long.
Since the method of distinguishing the quality of facial cleanser by fire is not reliable, how to judge the efficacy of facial cleanser? "After a good facial cleanser is used, the face is not tight." Chi Bo said, "especially those with sensitive skin are not recommended to use facial cleanser that makes the skin feel tight, because this will cause the skin surface to function as a barrier oil Remove."
Xu Yang, deputy chief physician of the Department of Dermatology of Jiangsu Provincial People's Hospital, also said that the main function of facial cleanser is cleansing. After cleansing, the skin is not tight, moisturized, or lack of water. If you want to moisturize the skin, you may wish to use glycerin and allantoic. Facial cleanser with moisturizing ingredients such as vegan.
In addition, the pH value of the facial cleanser is preferably weakly acidic. "The pH of the skin is about 4.1-5.8. The facial cleanser on the market can be between 6-7. The pH can be measured with a test paper .Alkaline or soap-based facial cleanser is better in oil removal, but if it is too alkaline, it may affect the pH of the skin." Xu Yang said that after the skin pH is changed, it will cause skin flora. Variety. If the pH is increased, an environment conducive to the growth of some skin bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acnes, will be formed, thereby increasing the probability of skin acne.
Chi Bo suggested that for people with oily skin, a soap-based facial cleanser containing dodecyl and laurate substances can be used, but beware of excessive cleaning and damage to skin oils. Excessive cleansing will dry and tighten the skin, and will also completely open the pores and increase the chance of contact with germs, causing skin allergies. Those with neutral and sensitive skin are more suitable for facial cleanser containing amino acids and olive oils.
Crooked operation: Shake the toner, more nutrients in the foam and more positive solutions: the surfactant content determines how much the foam
After washing your face, especially on a hot summer day, take a little toner on your face, and you will feel refreshed. So how to identify the pros and cons of toner? There are netizens' tips to shake toner. If there is less foam, it means less nutrients. Is this really the case?
"The content of nutrients has nothing to do with the amount of foam." For this method circulating on the Internet, Chi Bo said that many ingredients in the toner will not produce foam, such as vitamin C, plant extracts, and salicylic acid.
Xu Yang said that the ingredients in the toner are both water-soluble and fat-soluble, such as hyaluronic acid, fruit acid of water-soluble ingredients, glycerin and salicylic acid of fat-soluble ingredients. Dissolving fat-soluble ingredients in water requires the addition of surfactants. Surfactants can cause foaming when shaken, but surfactants do not affect the nutrition of the toner.
Chi Bo further introduced: "In the production of toner, sometimes in order to dissolve essences and essential oils in water, it is also necessary to add surfactants, which can increase the surface tension of the liquid and allow all the substances to fuse evenly to form oil-in-water. The system makes it difficult for various substances to be layered, and the storage time is longer."
How much foam can not judge the content of the substance, how to choose the toner that suits you?
Xu Yang said that the role of toner is to moisturize and soften the stratum corneum. But the use of toner should be different from person to person, people with oily skin can use some softening cuticle or toner with alcohol. For people with sensitive skin, it is not recommended to easily use toner containing alcohol, fruit acid, salicylic acid. "Fruit acid and high concentration of salicylic acid have keratin exfoliation effect. It is not recommended for people with thin cuticles." She recommends that for people with sensitive skin, if you can't identify which kind of toner is useful for you, you can use it with caution. Just use lotion or moisturizer.
Crooked operation: the emulsion enters the water, and it contains oleyl ester when it floats on the surface. Positive solution: the sink and floating surface are mainly determined by the density
It looks like a white milk-like emulsion, which is moisturizing and moisturizing. If a few drops are squeezed and dissolved in water, some emulsion floats on the water surface, and some emulsion sinks into the water. Some emulsion identification methods that have been circulating recently believe that the emulsion floats on the water surface. Explain that containing oleyl esters will damage the skin. Is this statement reliable?
Regardless of ups and downs, there is no proof whether the lotion will harm the skin. Xu Yang said that the emulsion is generally composed of oils, emulsifiers, preservatives, fragrances, excipients to adjust the pH, etc. Different production formulas and processes determine the density of the emulsion. Whether the emulsion will float on the water is determined by the density of the emulsion. If the density is greater than water, the emulsion will sink, otherwise it will float on the water. But it cannot be said that the lotion floating on the water will damage the skin. It depends on the specific ingredients and proportions.
Chi Bo believes that emulsions with a lot of oil are more likely to float on the water. These oils are mostly light oils, such as mineral oils. The amount of oil will affect the skin feel and moisturizing strength of the emulsion. Healthy skin is balanced by water and oil, and the best way to maintain skin health is to protect the skin's barrier function. Too thin and heavy lotions are not suitable.
If you want to choose a lotion that suits you, you can also pay more attention to the ingredient list. Xu Yang believes that the most important function of lotions and creams is to moisturize. If you need anti-aging, you can choose to add A alcohol, vitamin C, vitamin E, peptides and other substances in the emulsion. Sensitive skin needs some emulsions that have anti-allergic effects and can repair the water-oil barrier, such as emulsions with ceramide, purslane extract, licorice extract and other substances. These added substances have some anti-inflammatory effects. The emulsion containing vitamin C, arbutin, tranexamic acid and other substances is suitable for people who need whitening. Salicylic acid, fruit acid, mandelic acid and other substances can help to refine pores and resist acne.
Crooked operation: rubbing salt on lipstick, turning black to indicate lead-containing mercury positive solution: the content of related substances can only be detected after nitrification with strong acid
Choosing a powerful lipstick will not only make your lip color full and shiny, but also make the entire face feel makeup. Some netizens said that put salt on the lipstick and rub it. If there are black particles, it means that the content of lead and mercury exceeds the standard. Do not buy it.
In response, Qu Mei, a senior engineer of the National Cosmetic Quality Supervision and Inspection Center responded: "Not reliable." One of Qu Mei's daily tasks is to check the quality of various cosmetics.
She said whether a lipstick's quality meets the standard needs to be reflected by its routine indicators such as lead, arsenic, mercury, cadmium and the total number of colonies, mold and yeast, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and E. coli. To complete this testing process, a set of chemical tests are required.
"During the test, we finished the lipstick, added strong acid, and heated it with an electric furnace. The strong acid will fully decompose the chemical composition of the lipstick. Then put them in a high-temperature horse boiling furnace and burn it for several hours to remove all the lipstick. Organic matter, leaving inorganic matter. After dissolving the inorganic matter, use instruments such as atomic absorption or atomic fluorescence to detect the content of lead, arsenic, mercury, and cadmium in cosmetics. So, just add salt and knead at room temperature, yes It is impossible to decompose lead, mercury, etc." Qu Mei told the Science and Technology Daily that lead, arsenic, mercury, and cadmium are all ingredients that are prohibited from being added in cosmetic production. Mercury illegally added can make the skin appear white for a short time. The illusion, but there is no need for short-term whitening, so there is no need to add. The test results of the cosmetics center over the years show that no lipstick samples containing mercury exceeding the standard are found in the lipstick, and consumers need not worry.
What are the black particles produced by the friction between salt and lipstick in the video posted online? Chi Bo said: "The black particles may be the sodium chloride that destroyed the lipstick paste system, which caused the internal composition to change. However, some merchants will not write all the ingredients in the composition table. The composition of the black particles is not very good. Good judgment."