WITH FAME of undisciplined and somewhat rowdy, the Spanish are behaving with a civility and an obedience that, in this Europe on the brink of divorce, is a lesson in manners to the greedy Dutch hawks of the new Hanseatic League. Empty streets, punctual applause the white-robed heroes as the dead mourn privately; the general silence of the great tragedies, only broken by the kind comment of the neighbor until recently anonymous or the fruit vendor who sees how
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