China News Agency, Honghe, March 22, "The change" and "unchangeability" of Chinese famous snacks crossing the bridge noodles

Author Miao Chao

The large bowl contains 95 degrees Celsius broth, boiled eggs in 1 second, and boiled meat in 5 seconds ... a trick of "fireless cooking" that makes the bridge noodles "changing fresh" for 300 years.

After 300 years of inheritance, the bridge noodles are now China's national intangible cultural heritage and are also included in Chinese snacks. Recently, the reporter walked into Mengzi, Yunnan, the birthplace of the bridge noodles, and explored the "change" and "unchanging" behind its "Chang Xian".

According to legend, the scholar of the Qing Dynasty, studying in Nanhu, studied hard in Nanhu. The distressed wife distressed and then slaughtered chicken soup, sliced ​​meat, prepared rice noodles, and brought food in a can and basket. He fainted at the Nanhu Bridge. The scholar came to wake his wife and found the noodle soup , Still hot and hot, after the meat is quickly cooked, the food is extremely delicious, "Cross-bridge rice noodles" spread.

However, the process of making authentic bridge noodles can be described as "torn." Wang Lizhu, the intangible cultural heritage of the national-level intangible cultural heritage, told the reporter that soup is the soul of the bridge noodles. He gets up at 3 a.m. every day to cook broth, and chooses good ribs, boiled bones, pork belly, and chicken. Stew in a large pot. "While shaking a large spoon, while picking a spoon to remove white foam, and cook for 5 hours." This is 40 years ago, Wang Lizhu inherited from his father's "secret recipe."

In 1989, Wang Lizhu traveled to Kunming to run a bridge noodle shop. "At that time, Chinese cities were developing rapidly, and my shop in Kunming continued to be demolished. I have changed to three places, adhered to traditional skills, and changed the land without soup. The business has been booming. . "

In 1999, she returned to Mengzi to open a store. "Mengzi has thousands of noodle shops and the competition is fierce."

Under the pressure of competition, for the first time, she made "changes" and added chrysanthemum petals to the bridge noodles. "Yellow chrysanthemums are not only beautiful, but also remove greasy, heat and lungs."

The first way to eat chrysanthemum cross-bridge noodles made Wang Lizhu's business boom. In 2003, Wang Lizhu went to Shantou to participate in the National Famous Snack Competition. "6900 kinds of snacks! Chinese food culture is extensive and profound. I tasted Jilin crispy chicken and Shandong stewed vegetables ... what would happen if these were put into bridge noodles?"

Traditional cross-border rice noodles are only served with pork tenderloin, chicken breast, quail eggs, tempeh, crispy meat, chives, and later added matsutake, squid, fish fillet, shrimp, and ham ... Cater to all directions.

In today's Mengzi, there are endless patterns of crossing the rice noodles.

But 40 years ago, Wang Lizhu almost missed the bridge noodle technique. "My father insisted on the old rules, and his skills passed on men but not women." Wang Lizhu had bad eyes and had albinism. She begged several times before her father was willing to teach.

"In my generation, apprentices, regardless of men and women, no matter where they come from, as long as they can endure hardships, I am willing to teach." Wang Lizhu told reporters that she has taught hundreds of apprentices from Sichuan, Chongqing, Beijing, Fujian, Australia And so on. Crossing the bridge noodles, eventually headed for the rest of the world.

The new generation of bridge noodle producers also changes in time. Bai Lianzi, the owner of Mengzi's "Gourmet Beauty", introduced the concept of aesthetics to the bridge noodle culture. "The bridge noodles must also pass on the beauty visually." She started from the food environment, tableware selection, and plate design, and transformed the "snack" noodles into "a feast for one person".

Not only that, Bai Lianzi also launched vegetarian rice noodles, which is loved by vegetarians.

"Inheritance is not old-fashioned, innovation does not forget the original." Said Liu Wenqi, president of the Mengzi Crossing Bridge Noodle Association. (Finish)