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The dream of his grandfather Amos, a Navarrese, often and gentleman who sold the products of his garden through the villages, was to open a inn. And although his grandson, chef Jesús Sánchez (Azagra, Navarra, 1964) did not know him, he wanted to fulfill that desire. He did it in a big way, setting up the only Spanish restaurant that has managed to add a third Michelin star in the latest edition of the guide (in total there are 11 in Spain and 137 in the world). He is also the only one with such a number of Cantabria awards .
The gastronomic temple in question is El Cenador de Amos, name with which he decided to pay tribute to his grandfather in 1993, when he opened, together with his wife, Marián Martínez, head of the room, his particular refuge. A few days ago he added another plus: being one of the favorite restaurants in Spain by users of El Tenedor, the leading culinary reservation platform in Europe. Share fans with El Bohío de Pepe Rodríguez, the popular chef of Masterchef, in Illescas (Toledo) and Echaurren of Francis Paniego in Ezcaray (La Rioja), the three favorites of 2019 from a list of 100. «The distinction is an honor, since the clients decide, not the professionals of the sector ”, explains Sánchez.
The gazebo is located in an 18th-century palace house in Villaverde de Pontones, a pleasant town of just 300 inhabitants 23 kilometers from Santander. There he receives his diners with four snacks, five snacks and three entrees (in the case of the Esencia menu , the shortest of the three he offers) and says goodbye with a loaf baked with organic flours in the restaurant that can be taken home . With the bread we start the talk.
Question.- What does bread mean to you?
Answer.- In my family there has been a baking tradition and I have always had a passion for this food so little valued until now. In fact, it seems to me the best gift, since it links you in a certain way when you have breakfast the next day. That's why I didn't stop until we set up our bakery in 2017.
Q.- After a couple of months of winter rest, El Cenador reopens on March 4. With what news?
A.- On the one hand, we want those who could not come in 2019 to enjoy the menu that led us to the third star . On the other, we insist on discarding the superfluous in the kitchen to reach essentiality. That is why, last year, we coined the hashtag #essentiality and this one took more step with #complexity essentials or #complexesence, since achieving our goal requires a great effort. And in that we are the whole team.
P. - 27 people work at El Cenador. Is a restaurant with three Michelin stars profitable?
R. - We have made ours, but it is not easy. Although it is true that the stars make people know you and come to eat, which allows you to participate in other more profitable projects perhaps.
Q.- How do you rate the current role of women as chefs?
R. - Fortunately, it is becoming more and more relevant thanks above all to the fact that there is more awareness of the need to reconcile, since hospitality schedules are very complicated. I really like the feminine way of expressing oneself in the kitchen. They have more sensitivity.
Q.- Will the territory of Cantabria continue to be the protagonist of the new season in your restaurant?
A.- Of course, we want whoever visits us to recognize the environment in the dishes. Navarra , my other source of inspiration with Cantabria, is also always present because it is where I am born, I grow up, I receive my first culinary inputs ... Then you travel, move and receive influences, but the basics remain.
Q.- Hence, asparagus and anchovies are their fetish products ...
R.- Of course, the vegetables or meat of Navarra are not lacking. Neither the anchovies or related to the Cantabrian.
Q.- In your fridge that is not missing?
A.- At home I am a subsistence cook. Where my wife and daughters do not see anything when opening the fridge, I find interesting things. And that is usually more empty than full. But I have fun creating. The other day we only had chicken breasts before we left for Japan. The piqué, I added Parmesan cheese, a little wasabi that we brought and they were great ... [his face makes it clear that the dish was not bad].
Q.- Your last trip has then been to the Japanese country. Do you usually select a destination according to your gastronomy?
A.- Yes, I love to immerse myself in the culinary culture because it is my job and I like to eat. In addition, the culture of a place is always linked to its cuisine. I am less motivated by sun and beach tourism.
Q.- What country has caught you culinary speaking?
R.- Japan , for example, where I just was, for the respect for work and its specialization. Oriental cuisine in general fascinates me. Without forgetting the Peruvian gastronomy for that fusion with the Japanese and the Argentine, a treasure. Another of my favorites is that of Mexico . I remember with affection a trip in which I stayed with Pepe Rodríguez , from Masterchef, at the house of one of my scholars from El Cenador, who was from there, and some Mariachis came to sing to us [laughs].
Q.- What place do you have pending?
A.- Many, but especially Vietnam, India and Morocco.
Q.- Do you usually organize your trips or get carried away by improvisation?
A.- I don't program things much due to lack of time, but I do like someone to guide me, tell me the places to go, restaurants, museums of modern art ...
Q.- Also the markets, I imagine, as recorded in El Cenador de Amos, with a sample of black and white photographs taken by yourself.
A.- Yes, they fascinate me because they are the essence of everything. I don't conceive a trip without them. In addition, photography is one of my great passions.
Q.- What other hobbies do you have?
A.- I like to go out with the Rowing Club through Santander Bay. Also receive my friends on Sunday afternoons at home. I am very listening and contrasting the different points of view of people. Another hobby is walking with my dog.
Q. - Any special place?
R.- To the Fuente del Francés , a very pleasant road on the outskirts of Villaverde de Pontones.
Q.- Finally, you have to tell us what your favorite restaurants are, apart from yours, of course.
R.- Many. In Madrid, La bien appeared, Sacha, La Tasquita, Coque, La Manduca de Azagra , where I feel at home because Juanmi, its owner, was my little neighbor ... Al Bohío I went for the first time twenty years ago. In Cantabria, Casa Sinfo, El Tronki, Casa Calvo, in Puente de San Miguel ... I forget many, huh?
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