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It was his grandfather Antonio the first to paint fans at home. He started doing it in 1910 in Godella, his hometown and one of the pioneers in Valencia (and in Spain) in this delicate art with roots in the area. Then his father would do the same and now it is him, Vicente Benlloch, who continues the tradition three times in the center of Valencia, where he has his shop-workshop Vibenca fans, where he sells pieces of 10 to 3,000 euros . There, on Lope de Vega Street, 5, he is seen every day matted between easels, brushes and multicolored paints. In its original bottle, some; in old jars of jam or Cola-Cao, others.

The thing to see is literal because the workshop, located in the back room, looks at the street from a gigantic window in which everyone, their own, strangers and tourists, stop to watch him. «They like to see me at work and come in to know more». Then he even gives them a master lesson in fan language . Some keys: supporting the lips on the end of a closed one means "I don't trust". Hang it on the left hand, "I have a boyfriend." And if he leans on his lips, he asks loudly "kiss me."

Jewelry inspired by the Orient

Benlloch is one of the stores included in the five shopping routes in the city organized by Valencia Tourism. They are not any business, but of native products. There are fashion, gastronomy, design, crafts ... And high jewelry such as Vicente Gracia, a passionate from the East that embodies the essence of the Silk Road in his pieces, of which Sofia and Queens queens are fans Letizia, actor Daniel Craig or the Arab royal houses.

Vicente Benlloch, in his shop-workshop Abanicos Vibenca.

Even Michael Jackson commissioned a brooch with seven precious stones in the shape of the tree of life. "I felt a predilection for 7," recalls Gracia from the top floor of her jewelry store on Calle de la Paz, 4, where she leads a team of 10 people. Planting one foot in it, between paintings, lamps, watercolors and calligraphic sketches of his creations, is an immersion in the thousand and one nights.

There he talks about the collection for which he received the National Design Award in the 80s and his fetish jewel, the River of Life that quadrupled its starting price at Christie's in 2008, reaching 180,000 euros. Since then, the auction house, where he exhibits every year, refers to him as "the poet of jewelry."

Paint on silk

From quartz and emeralds we turn to natural silk by the hand of another artist, Eva Escamilla, who is dedicated to painting on this fabric themed inspired by the area. The last of his projects, Valencia in silk, has as protagonists the modernist buildings of the city, from the Mercado de Colón to the North Station. Precisely in the former waiting room of the latter he has set up his headquarters, Ensedarte , the workshop in which he not only explains the historical relationship of silk with the region, but also teaches how to paint on it.

A client tries on a garment of Albero Hats.

"Each student creates his scarf and then takes it home," says the young woman behind her black apron and her frame, while recalling her connection with the station. «My father and my uncle were railroads and I always came here as a child. Therefore, I decided to rent this space for my company ».

Before continuing shopping, it is time to regain strength in the Central Market with a tasting of local sausages such as the Easter sausage at the Amparo Muñoz deli. You must also try tomato cheese or pesto, signature of the house. To continue the gastro theme, just opposite, in the Market Square, 35, Original CV offers delicatessen with a Valencian label in what was a 19th century apothecary, with its coffered ceramics of mahogany and ceramic intact. Its star products: mistela, organic and concentrated horchata , nougat ("we sell it all year round," says saleswoman Inma Izquierdo), cava or orange donuts.

SABINA AND ITS BOMBINS

Whoever wants more should go to Trufas Martínez (Ruzafa, 12), a workshop that makes artisanal chocolate just as when Don Hilario Martínez founded it in 1931. Today, his granddaughter, Teresa Ricart, continues to maintain the specialty, the cubanitos (cigars) of cocoa). «The chocolates with kikos, hot pepper and oil are also successful».

An artisan works by hand in a piece of Vicente Gracia jewelry.

The next stop leads to an 1820 millinery, that of the Albero family (Market Square, 9). Joaquín Sabina goes through it in search of a bowler hat (what if not?) Every time he has a concert in Valencia. And so did the reggaeton Maluma a few months ago. "We took a unique model of our pork pie," says David Estelles behind the counter, in which many berets, Panama Hats or pamelas are stacked. "With the series The Peaky Blinders come a lot for Irish caps." The same happened with Velvet and his 50's roll felt hats.

The most avant-garde places on the tour are Blackcape (Hernán Cortés, 21), specialized in high tailoring and accessories for men with personalized advice included, and Poppyns (Isabel la Católica, 21), an 800 square meter multi-space design whose motto is Buy different . Hence, sustainable brands (whether decoration, cosmetics or fashion), exhibitions of local artists, presentations, workshops and a coffee of bio products and cakes to die for, perfect to put the end point to the route.

PRACTICAL GUIDE

Drop down

How to get. The AVE as well as the city's airport connects Valencia with the rest of Spain.

Where to sleep. In the One Shot Queen Victoria . The first hotel in Valencia opened its doors in 1913 and it has slept illustrious characters such as Federico García Lorca or Ernest Hemingway. Today, completely renovated, the avant-garde design prevails, although they have kept the old original details. From 90 euros a night.

Where to eat In Vaqueta Gastro Mercat (Sant Ferran Street, 22). This design restaurant is the little brother of Pelayo's trinquet, a mythical local Valencian ballgame. It is located in front of the Central Market. Their cod fritters, their crispy artichokes and their arry of the Senyoret are a good choice. From 25 euros.

Balandret (Passeig de Neptú, 20, Las Arenas Beach). Regional and creative cuisine in a pleasant atmosphere overlooking the sea. From 30 euros.

More information In the section of the Valencia Tourism website related to shopping routes,

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  • tourism
  • Valencia
  • shopping

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