• Truths and lies about acne
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At any age and when you least expect it. Acne is a dermatological problem that is a real nightmare for a high percentage of teenagers and a disorder that brings numerous adults, mainly women, head first. According to the Spanish Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (AEDV) between 80% and 90% of the population will suffer from acne throughout their life , being the maximum age of prevalence between 14 and 16 years. There is even talk that currently affects about 8 million Spaniards, although it is considered to be under diagnosed.

"Acne, as the term is popularly used, usually refers to the appearance of a series of pimples on the face. However, dermatologists try to explain that it is much more, because it is a skin disease that is characterized by an inflammation of the sebaceous glands and the obstruction of the hair follicles that give rise to skin lesions (comedones, pustules and papules, nodules and cysts and scars) normally on the face, neck, neckline, back, and shoulders ", explains Dr. Leandro Martínez, dermatologist member of the AEDV.

Hormone question

Although it is very simple to blame chocolate, among others, for those annoying granites, "the truth is that the cause of acne is mainly hormonal . This is the reason why it is so prevalent in adolescence since there is a real revolution in the organism . So much that between 90 and 95% of people who have developed acne were going through puberty, "Martínez says. In addition to the hormonal component, "acne is also linked to genetic predisposition, stress, the use of inadequate cosmetic products or poor hygiene habits can also favor its appearance," adds Susana Mezquita, an expert in the Cinfa Laboratories scientific department.

On the other hand, in recent years, late acne has increased among women over 20 years of age, in some cases exceeding the age of 40. "This is a different acne than a teenager develops and is usually related to mismatches and changes hormonal and even factors such as stress or even the use of some cosmetics can favor it.In this case, it is concentrated around the chin, around the mouth and at the angles of the jaw, while men in those ages look less affected by this disorder since they have a different hormonal profile, "continues the doctor.

Although it is a problem that concerns both teenagers and adults, it does not have to be our worst enemy, since it is reversible : either it disappears by physiological age or numerous treatments can be applied. "There are many treatments that can reduce the symptoms of acne, but you should go to the specialist to prescribe the appropriate in each particular case," explains Mezquita. "Dermatologists treat acne with absolute solvency, reducing both the physical and psychological impact (self-esteem, confidence, safety ...), since this problem in 99% of cases is completely curable, " Martinez adds.

What can make it worse?

At the same time, there are many myths and lack of information surrounding acne, generating greater confusion when it comes to treating it. Although the first thing you should do is consult with a specialist to apply an appropriate treatment to your case, doctors explain how some external habits or factors, which without being decisive for its appearance, can favor this disease and even make it worse.

- TOUCH THE SKIN. Pinching, tightening, tearing or any form of manipulation of acne lesions can leave marks and scars on your skin. As the AEDV warns, "By squeezing the pimples we can transform an injury that was going to disappear in a short time and without leaving scars in another much more visible, more durable and in addition to healing will leave as a sequel a scar."

"In addition, the hands may be possible carriers of bacteria, which increases the risk of infections," adds the dermatologist.

- MIRACLE PRODUCTS AND HOME REMEDIES. There are no miraculous remedies, nor alternative treatments that are more effective than those that the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry markets and the dermatologist prescribes.

Susana Mezquita maintains that "the use of unsuitable products can cause serious side effects and even, in the face of a false initial improvement, they can cause in the short or medium term what we call a rebound effect , that is, that they worsen the pathology and even leave irreversible sequelae, such as acne scars or scars. " Any medication should always be prescribed by a dermatologist and, in the most severe cases, should be applied under strict supervision for very long periods, even years.

Self-medication or opting for treatments of questioned efficacy , as indicated by the specialist, or that have worked perfectly for an acquaintance are never a good idea. It is essential to consult with a healthcare professional , to advise us and recommend an appropriate treatment based on our skin type and our problem.

" Toothpaste or alcohol dries the grain, but also the skin around it, irritating it. In addition, the paste contains ingredients such as fluoride or hydrogen peroxide that can clog the pore, even create more pimples long term. We must not forget that our skin reacts to aggressions, and in this case it can produce more sebum or thicken to protect itself, "says Mezquita.

- CLEANING AND HYGIENE. Good daily cleaning habits are essential to take care of the skin with an acne tendency. "Soap-based aggressive cleansing agents and using too hot water can alter the natural balance of the skin and worsen the signs," says Mezquita, who emphasizes that "some skin care and makeup products are also fatty and comedogenic (which means they can clog pores and cause acne). "

Likewise, "it must be done smoothly and without friction since we can trigger the opposite effect, that we alter the natural characteristics of the skin and favor the appearance of acne," says Leandro Martínez.

- STRESS. "Emotional stress has long been associated with acne; the effect it has on the severity of acne or its worsening has been underestimated. Recent studies have shown that when we suffer stress, our body produces hormones and other substances that have influence in the behavior of the sebaceous glands and can make acne worse, "says the Mosque. Likewise, "high levels of stress can not only make it worse but also cause new outbreaks," says Martínez.

In addition, the nervousness that causes stress often causes us to touch or manipulate the lesions with our fingers, "which can spread the bacteria and cause more inflammation, so that acne symptoms worsen," adds the dermatologist.

- TOBACCO, ALCOHOL ... Explains the dermatologist that "research indicates that smoking produces oxidative stress on the skin, altering the composition of sebum. There are several studies conducted in smokers that testify."

With regard to alcohol and its ability to produce outbreaks, " there is no convincing scientific evidence to show that it influences acne in any way. Sometimes it may seem that alcohol makes acne worse, but what is produced is a reddening of the face by a dilation of the blood vessels of the skin that makes it appear that the pimples are more flushed and more evident, but does not increase the number of pimples or trigger outbreaks, "says the expert.

- FOOD. It is probably the area around which more myths have been created. According to experts from the AEDV and after many studies in this regard, the conclusion is that foods with high glycemic index (those that are subjected to special processes for their conservation, with a large number of additives, dyes, preservatives and flavor enhancers) can make acne worse.

While the legend that " chocolate (or dairy) also increases acne is unproven. In fact, dark chocolate has potent antioxidants that are good for the skin in general. You have to be careful, however, with candies and cakes . These can trigger acne breakouts, since they have high glycemic indexes, "Mezquita says.

- POLLUTION. The dermatologist explains that "among other substances, small particles have been detected in environmental pollution (PM 2.5) that can alter the protective barrier of the skin and cause specific damage in people suffering from acne. These particles trigger a reaction that begins with the oxidation of sebum on the surface of the skin, followed by an increase in fat production and excessive cell formation, which leads to more dead cells. "

The consequence is that "the blackheads get worse and new ones may appear, blockage develop, inflammation of the pore develop and trigger crisis or worsen acne," continues the specialist.

- SUN. Popular belief considers the sun as one of the best allies to dry the granites. Nothing is further from reality. In fact, up to 32% of cases, acne can get worse with sun exposure , according to AEDV experts. "In addition, an excess of sun can increase the risk of pigmentation problems and scars, because we must not forget that during acne, the skin is inflamed," says Mezquita.

On the other hand, "it is important to keep in mind that the products used in skin peeling and many acne medications increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun , so if we resort to them, it is essential to use specific non-comedogenic photoprotectors protect us, "concludes the expert.

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