Restaurants

Cañitas Maite

16

  • Kitchen

    Outstanding

  • Service

    Outstanding

  • Cellar

    Remarkable

  • Decoration / atmosphere

    Remarkable

  • Ibáñez House (Albacete)

  • Average Price: 20-60 euros

  • Spanish Cuisine

With a solid training and an improper maturity of his 23 years, the young cooks of this Albacete dining room give a resounding return to tradition

"They will go even further", pointed out Fernando Point

in the first review of this restaurant in the Albacete town of Casa Ibáñez that appeared less than two years ago on the pages of Metrópoli.

He was referring to the very young chefs Javi Sanz and Juan Sahuquillo, who at that time made their first steps

in the kitchen of the hotel restaurant of the former's family, helping out on weekends while they finished their studies and trained in temples such as Atrio and Casas Marcial, the first, and Mugaritz and Andreu Genestra, the second.

A very recent visit has fully confirmed the prediction

: now that they are in full-time practice, they have gone to much more.

And, paraphrasing the teacher,

"they will go much further still

.

"

With a solid technical training and an improper maturity of the 23 years they have,

their proposal is inspired by tradition, to which they give a resounding twist

.

And without limiting themselves to the fashionable kilometer 0, they look for the best possible genre.

Thus,

shellfish come from the Arousa estuary and the markets of Altea and Huelva

;

the fish come from O'Grove, Ribeiro and Vigo;

the

red meats are one hundred percent Galician

and well matured;

the vegetables are organic from farmers in the area and the aromatic herbs and green pineapples are collected by themselves in the Júcar mountain range.

All of this translates into two very different menus, the tapas menu and the pure product menu

.

The first, with more than moderate prices (for 20 euros it is possible to pay a full-fledged tribute), is playful and highly satisfactory and it

does not lack certain exotic nods, mainly to Southeast Asia

.

Hazelnut and foie cut, impeccable, elegant and very clean.

Manchego cheese fritter, sweet.

Joselito Iberian ham croquette, anthological, one of the best we have ever tasted

, with a perfect balance between sheep's milk and ham and a formidable texture between creamy and liquid, perfectly battered in panko.

The Patatas Bravas waffle is crispy and tasty and it just lacks a bit of joy (that is, a bit of spice) to be one of the

must

-

haves

of the house.

The sweet fried suckling pig's ear is so fine that even non-gourmand fans can eat it.

The

octopus and colorá butter

hot dog

is indispensable, just like the very successful sea and mountains represented by the suckling pig and crayfish ssam.

Katsu sando of bluefin tuna and roast beef rib roll are two options as "main" tapas.

If the tapas menu is playful, fun and very enjoyable, the

product

menu

is where the two young chefs really show off all the talent they treasure

.

Risk, balance, criteria ... Attention to the succession of platazos that make up the tasting menu:

razor with pine resin

pil-pil

;

green chick with hake cococha;

artichoke with jowl Joselito;

Txipirón de ría with black onion (perhaps a bit past sweet due to the excessive reduction of liliaceae);

crayfish from the estuary with an intense rooster juice;

black grouper with mounted collagen;

pigeon rice with chanterelles;

Iberian feather with garum and beet

;

Sheep cream flan with pine ice cream and Manchego cheese with caviar.

Separate paragraph deserve

the three great tops of the menu

.

The undisputed star is the

roasted carabinero with orza butter

.

From Huelva, the crustacean is presented open and smeared with an oil in which various Iberian sausages have been macerated.

One of the great dishes of 2020, almost at the same height the Dénia prawn in fig leaf papillote, which extols the infinite nuances of the already queen of the Mediterranean.

And the

txuleta

with ripened pepper, impeccably roasted and with a garnish that almost overshadows the main product, because the pepper ends up having a meaty texture.

All the aforementioned dishes are well worth it, but these three, and

the croquette of course, justify the trip to La Manchuela

.

And we still need to talk about the rice dishes that, like everything in this restaurant, are out of the league, horse and king.

To start with, we use

a bombita rice from La Albufera matured for 12 months

and polished to 60 percent (to extract its purity, as if it were going to make sake) and all are of a grain of height, We find one of kid, with the background made with the juice itself and topped with some chops and some garlic sprouts.

Another is cutlet, with a bottom prepared with matured bone and beef fat and which is "accompanied" with slices of meat.

And, finally, the sailor, with squid and carabinieri.

All, as you can imagine, of an enormous sapid power

.

It is evident that in Cañitas Maite you eat very well.

But, with food being its main asset and attraction, a restaurant is more than food and if those factors did not accompany ... For example, a cheerful and bright dining room, presided over by a huge bottle rack and dressed with

a vintage Vespa that some It immediately reminds us of Audrey Hepburn

.

Or a

service dedicated to the cause

, young, well-trained and better prepared, that creates the kitchen of chefs, defends it and transmits it to the tables.

Or a varied wine list, which still has room for improvement, with a notable presence of labels from the area, Manchuela, and an unexpected and always remarkable offer of generous ones.

Or a unique, original tableware that plays with natural elements, which is made for you by a local artisan.

And it will not stop here,

because Javi and Juan are already preparing an extremely ambitious project in the neighboring town of Alcalá del Júcar

, rightly classified as one of the most beautiful towns in Spain.

But that will be in the medium term future.

A future that, considering his age and talent, has to be his.

According to the criteria of

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