• This Chueca establishment offers one of the most interesting cuisines in Madrid, with a fine and personal proposal

Better late than never.

In this section we have not known until now the small and modest restaurant that has earned a

faithful parish

on a street in Chueca for just over four years.

Well, it's here, and we have no choice but to make excuses, because this little place offers one of the

most interesting cuisines in Madrid

.

Of course, we have been told that their employer, the Venezuelan

Rafael Bergamo

, has been refining the proposal incessantly since 2016. In any case, we could not wait another week.

In

Kuoco 360º Food

-the full name already gives us an idea of ​​the vocation of

superfusion

that

reigns

here- the finesse and personality of the kitchen

surpass the level of the best fusion

, which as we know in our city is among the best in the world.

Bergamo, very well supported in the dining room by his countryman

Andrés Correa

, is an obviously traveled cook, exposed to many traditions and products, and who is not limited today to the classic harmonies between Asian and American, but draws from

all kinds of sources

to obtain a harmonious result, not what a veteran critic called - for no reason, by the way - "absurd hodgepodge" when he first tried one of the pioneering fusion kitchens in Spain, that of Abraham García in Viridiana.

What is not exotic in this house is the setting, of a spartan modesty, in a narrow dining room with the kitchen facing the back and with no other decoration than some colorful photos on one of the walls.

Here, of course, we do not come for the setting but for what they cook, although it must be emphasized that the

efficient and smiling service

is that of

a large house

.

If the menu is puzzling -which is very possible- there is a menu of nine steps for 56 euros that presents this style very well.

The other day - after the temptation of the magnificent bread and smoked butter - we searched the menu for all these

fine bites and without fanfare

of spicy or sweet: a crunchy wonton inspired by the Mexican taco al pastor, with its pineapple mojito;

a Peking duck croquette;

the

emblematic dish of the house

, "7 Asian-Caribbean powers 2.0" (shrimp, squid, octopus, tomato, lime, lemongrass, creamy avocado and jalapeño, no less), wild

sea ​​bass

with edamame

vichyssoise

(soy pods) Well smoked in the

robata

, a very

honeyed

beef cheek with curry between Thai and chipotlero, plus an

aligot

of potato and taleggio cheese.

And there was strength for some caramelized banana.

Dazzling

.

The wine list, although somewhat indecipherable in some cases (

Bourgogne

,

Chablis

, without mention of the producer or the vintage), presents a truly

interesting and varied

wine cellar

.

It is not easy to harmonize this varied cuisine with a single wine, but here are the essential sparkling and white wines, and even some fresh and light reds like the one we successfully chose: the sousón The Flower and the Bee 2019 that Xosé Lois Sebio makes in Coto de Gomariz (Ribeiro).

More information about Kuoco 360º Food

  • San Bartolomé, 14

    • 91 199 53 77

  • Opening hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday

    • Official Website: https://www.kuoco.es/

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