After years of development, Hanfu is moving from a niche circle to the mass market, and has become an important part of the national trendy culture and economy. It not only provides new marketing ideas for tourism, photography and other industries, but also features Hanfu elements such as ancient script killing and ancient costume banquets. Immersive consumption is in the ascendant.

  This year's "May 1st" holiday, the immersive Tang-style market life block "Chang'an Twelve Hours" opened in Xi'an. Many tourists specially put on Tang-made Hanfu and came to watch Tang art, listen to Tang music, and taste Tang food.

The scattered ancient-style buildings, the fluttering robes and the skirts are flying, and the beauty of Hanfu is eye-catching.

  After years of development, Hanfu is moving from the niche circle to the mass market, becoming an important part of the national tide culture and economy The immersive consumption of elements is in the ascendant.

Hanfu consumption is on the rise

  "I used to wear hanfu on the street, and people often asked me where I was going to perform. Now more and more people recognize it as a hanfu, and many people can tell the dynasties and shapes." Landscape Design of Changzhi City, Shanxi Province Teacher Cao Xiaoyan "entered the pit" of Hanfu as early as 2015. She deeply felt that in recent years, the national culture represented by Hanfu has prevailed, and the society's acceptance of Hanfu has been continuously improved.

  "I started by buying size-coded ready-to-wear clothes, but as I learned more about the shape and fabric of Hanfu, I started to buy custom Hanfu and imported Hanfu." Cao Xiaoyan introduced, "I purchased the fabric and painted it myself. The design drawings are made by tailors. Spring and summer Hanfu costs from tens of yuan to three or four hundred yuan, and autumn and winter Hanfu made of wool and cashmere fabrics are more expensive.”

  In addition, Cao Xiaoyan will also buy some Hanfu items with original designs and complex craftsmanship, such as Hanfu made of woven gold, imitation makeup flowers, chemical fiber Luo and other fabrics.

"The single product is tailor-made for me by the merchant, and the price of one piece is more than 1,000 yuan." Cao Xiaoyan said.

  Zhao Jing, from Xianyang City, Shaanxi Province, prefers the Hanfu of the Song Dynasty and the Hanfu of the Ming Dynasty made of cotton and linen.

She said, "Hanfu made of silk, kesi and other fabrics and techniques are more delicate, and have higher requirements for washing and care methods and wearing scenes. I prefer cotton and linen Hanfu that are easy to care for."

  Zhao Jing started to buy Hanfu during her university days. After working, she will buy 2 to 3 pieces of Hanfu every month, and the price is between 300 yuan and 600 yuan.

"In addition to wearing Hanfu when gathering with friends, traveling or on holidays, I also mix and match Hanfu with ordinary clothes in my daily life." Zhao Jing told reporters that she has more than 50 pieces of Hanfu, most of which are purchased from e-commerce platforms.

  As "National Treasure" and other programs have attracted attention for wearing Hanfu, Miss Tumbler dressed in Hanfu has become popular. Under the catalysis and dissemination of social platforms and the boost of e-commerce platforms, it originally existed only in Hanfu in niche circles is moving towards daily life and the mass market, gaining the favor of more and more consumers.

  On the Douyin platform, the total number of short videos tagged with Hanfu has exceeded 68 billion.

According to the relevant person in charge of Douyin, from January 2022 to the present, the number of merchants selling Hanfu on the platform has increased by 239% compared with the same period last year.

In the "Douyin Trend Oriental Season" event held from April 23 to May 4, the sales of Hanfu on the Douyin e-commerce platform increased by 312% year-on-year.

  "The Hanfu consumer market has the characteristics of youth, femininity and circle, and the consumption behavior of Hanfu presents the polarized characteristics of interest-oriented collection consumption and casual one-time consumption." Tian Hui, associate professor of the School of Cultural Industry Management, Communication University of China, believes that with the The excellent traditional Chinese culture is full of vigor and vitality of the times, the awareness of Hanfu consumption is getting higher and higher, and the market acceptance of Hanfu has expanded in breadth and depth.

express cultural identity

  "I liked Hanfu at first, but I just thought they were beautiful." Zhao Jing said, recalling the reason for "entering the pit" of Hanfu.

Similar to many Hanfu lovers, she was attracted by the exquisite Hanfu in ancient costume TV series, and immediately began to understand the culture of Hanfu and placed orders frequently.

  The traditional Chinese culture carried by Hanfu is also the reason why many consumers are fascinated.

Cao Xiaoyan believes that Hanfu is a clothing carrier that displays traditional culture. Ordinary people can intuitively feel its cultural charm and are willing to display and spread it in life.

  "Hanfu consumption is characterized by a younger generation. Consumers have witnessed the enhancement of national strength in the process of growing up. Their national pride and cultural identity rooted in their hearts have inspired their confidence and love for local brands." Tian Hui said that young consumption Consumers pay more attention to self-expression. While satisfying young consumers’ love and expression of local culture, Hanfu also satisfies their deep-seated demands for personalization and identity.

  Hanfu lovers call each other "common robe", which comes from "How can you say no clothes? Same robe with your son".

They use Hanfu as a link to make friends with similar interests and establish group identity.

  Cao Xiaoyan told reporters that when Hanfu first "entered the pit", Hanfu was a very niche hobby.

"It wasn't until the Qiqiao Festival in 2017 that I saw the recruitment post of the Hanfu event on the local post bar and met a group of like-minded partners, and then I maintained my love for Hanfu."

  Liu Xueer, a girl from Guangzhou, also under the encouragement of her "colleagues", quit her job as a clerk in her hometown to start a business in Hangzhou. In 2019, she founded Fengshang Traditional Costume Design Studio.

  Liu Xueer told reporters that taking advantage of the Hanfu Dongfeng, it was relatively smooth to start a business. In September 2019, the first Ming-made horse-faced skirt of the "Fengshang" brand was put on the shelves on Taobao. Mochizuki woven gold skirt, priced at 1188 yuan.

"More than 500 pieces were sold that year, and it is still a 'can't-get' style on the second-hand trading platform."

  Since the opening of the store, "Fengshang" has launched more than 20 Ming-made Hanfu, and during the epidemic period, each style can maintain sales of more than 100 pieces on average.

  It takes several months from the design and drawing of a Han costume to the factory for proofing, revision and finalization, and then to the weaving factory for weaving and dyeing.

"To design a new style, depending on the complexity of the craftsmanship and the number of revisions, the cost ranges from 30,000 to 100,000 yuan. Weaving and dyeing a batch of fabrics requires at least 200,000 to 300,000 working capital." Liu Xueer admitted frankly , the epidemic has brought certain pressure on capital flow.

  Speaking of the future, Liu Xueer is very confident.

"Hanfu, a clothing that carries traditional Chinese cultural aesthetics and a sense of national identity, is very popular among young people, and has gradually become a cultural phenomenon and emerging industry that integrates fashion and tradition. I believe that more and more people will buy Hanfu in the future. Businesses with original designs will have better development.”

Show elements of the times

  With the rapid growth of the number of Hanfu fans and the market size, the related consumer market has also ushered in new opportunities for development.

  From the Xitang Hanfu Culture Week, which has been held for 9 consecutive years, to Wuhan Happy Valley's "National Style Dimension Festival Hanfu Appreciation Spring" theme event, Beijing Huachao Hanfu Culture Festival, and then to many attractions announcing "free tickets for wearing Hanfu" , tourist scenic spots have become the high-frequency usage scenarios of Hanfu, and the development of Hanfu leasing or sales business has also become a "secondary consumption point" for many scenic spots.

  Consumers are no longer satisfied with the "Hanfu + photo" punch-in mode. For this reason, many travel companies have launched experience projects with Hanfu as the core.

In March of this year, in a city-wide community event held by Mafengwo in Yuyuantan Park in Beijing, participants dressed in Hanfu, solved puzzles as "flower gods" during the Flower Dynasty Festival, and enjoyed the "travel" experience while outing in the park.

Various creative products not only contributed to the ticket revenue for the scenic spot, but also brought new vitality to the tourism market.

  In addition to tourism, "Hanfu+" also brings new marketing ideas to industries such as beauty, fashion, wedding, catering, photography, etiquette training, etc. Hanfu photo, Hanfu theme script killing, Hanfu afternoon tea and other immersive consumption with Hanfu elements in the ascendant.

  The stylist Zhang Zhili has been in the makeup industry for 9 years, mainly engaged in the makeup work of dance drama shooting, advertisement shooting, personal photo, stage catwalk, and transformed from modern makeup to antique makeup in 2017.

  "From design, makeup and hair to clothes and accessories, it takes about 2 hours to complete a complete set of ancient style makeup, and the fee is about 2,000 yuan." Zhang Zhili introduced that the first ancient style makeup was out of interest, just in time for the Hanfu boom. , so the operation is relatively smooth.

Nowadays, the number of orders for ancient style makeup in advertising shooting and personal photos is increasing, and activities such as Hanfu catwalks in various places are more frequent, and invitations to makeup are sent to her one after another.

  This puts forward higher professional requirements for Zhang Zhili.

"The makeup of the Han Dynasty is simple and elegant, the makeup of the Tang Dynasty is elegant and luxurious, and the makeup of the Song Dynasty is restrained and elegant." Zhang Zhili told reporters, "I read professional books, visited museums, consulted murals and ancient paintings, and consulted experts. It is as close to history as possible and restores the image of the characters. I hope that consumers can understand the long-standing traditional culture through various ancient costumes, so that the traditional culture can be better implemented in daily life.”

  The "breaking circle" Hanfu economy has brought traditional culture into more consumption scenarios.

"Hanfu and related consumption must maintain long-term popularity, and innovative thinking and modern expression are required in terms of the in-depth exploration of cultural connotation and the transmission of cultural connotation, as well as in the design, quality and even brand development of the product itself." Tian Hui believes that only by rooting in a deep understanding of cultural values, taking the elements of the times as a starting point, and resonating with the aesthetics and emotions of the target consumer groups, can traditional culture obtain sustainable development of consumption soil.

(Economic Daily reporter Zeng Shiyang Lei Ting)

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