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Beaujolais lovers new in the streets of Lyon, November 14, 2018. AFP / Romain Lafabregue

The amateurs of the wine futures were given rendezvous this 21 of November. This is the opportunity to (re) discover the beautiful region of Beaujolais and its grape king, gamay, so popular with Japanese and Americans. However, they may pay more for their bottles because of the additional taxes on French wines.

Feelings of injustice and amazement reign among the producers of Beaujolais since the entry into force on October 18, 2019 of the additional customs duties on the exports of wines in the United States. " It's anger! ", Launches Dominique Piron, president of Inter Beaujolais and winegrower in Morgon. And for good reason: the United States has become the first market Beaujolais wines for export to Japan, their historic market.

See also: Is Donald Trump right to want to overtax French wine?

Long-term work

The Americans were seduced by the freshness, digestible and little tannic Beaujolais. A type of wine that they do not necessarily find at home. If the appellations Beaujolais-Villages seem to attract the most (40% of the offer), they are also interested in the ten wines of Beaujolais. It's been a while since the US market was in the sights of Beaujolais producers. They have been working hard with opinion leaders with classes, tastings and other events happening across the Atlantic. Sommeliers, journalists, importers, wine merchants and e-commerce representatives made the trip during the third edition of Vinexpo Explorer this year devoted to Beaujolais. Throughout the year, winemakers and traders have made "educational" tours in major US cities, but also on the east and west coasts of the United States, because it is here that their wines are particularly popular.

Édouard Parinet runs Château du Moulin-à-Vent, a family estate. Present on the American market for six years, he sells 25,000 bottles. " The increase in taxes is a drag on our progress, " he confirms. If until then there were no cancellations of orders, the winemaker had to adapt to this new situation.

A gentleman agreement

Normally, the wine undergoes two kinds of taxes in the United States: the first on its arrival on the national territory, then the second according to the State where it is sold. The increase imposed by Donald Trump corresponds to the US entry tax. This has risen to 25%, a considerable sum that could raise the price of the bottle by 45%. In order not to carry the weight of this increase to the American consumer (the risk is that it turns to more accessible wines), importers and distributors have turned to producers to find an arrangement. If for now there have been no cancellations of orders, it is because all the actors have agreed to play the game. Everyone pays part of the tax. The goal is that the price does not increase for the end customer. Knowing that in the United States a bottle of Beaujolais costs between 22 and 27 dollars. And for some wines, this price can go up to 70 dollars!

Adapt, but do not give up

But this arrangement may not hold in the long run, while the tax, it is likely to settle, feared Dominique Piron. " The key word will adapt, " abounds Édouard Parinet. Now that they have established themselves in the United States, the world's largest wine market, Beaujolais producers plan to stay there. Conscious of the stakes, they do not abandon the idea of ​​making things evolve. " Our goal is that import taxes go down ," says the interprofessional president. The question remains: who will have the last word, the Trump administration or the American consumer?

►To listen also: Wine Fair: French wines make a place on the shelves