The city of Salamanca celebrates its biggest and most anticipated party, in which the bullfighting world is the protagonist. Enclosures, capeas and bullfights are complemented by charangas and costume parades
The carnivals start in Ciudad Rodrigo, the most popular and expected party for the inhabitants of the town of Salamanca. Of National Tourist Interest and considered one of the oldest in Spain, these peculiar celebrations, very different from the rest, are characterized fundamentally by having the brave bull as the undisputed protagonist, with confinements, capeas and bullfights. For five frantic days (from Friday 21 to Tuesday 25 February), bullfighting events are complemented by charangas, costume parades, mask dances and other street activities.
The historic center of the beautiful walled city, west of the province of Salamanca, next to Portugal, and watered by the waters of the Águeda River, is the scene of the celebrations, especially the streets Toro, La Colada, Madrid and its adjacent , full of places of tapas and bars of march, as well as the Plaza del Buen Alcalde (in which the Church of Cerralbo is located), where the booths of some carnival clubs, the Casino or the Palace of Montarco are located. Another important point of partying concentration is the Plaza Mayor , chaired by the Town Hall, on whose balcony (on the impressive central facade of the 16th-century Renaissance building), the town's preacher officially inaugurates the Carnival before thousands of people (Friday 21 , at 8:15 p.m.). Just before, the Campanazo takes place, a peak moment in which the clubs and the general public fill the square, after parading from the Los Pinos area in the company of brass bands and dressed in farinato scarves. There they wait dancing until the first bell rings (6:15 pm), which starts the parties. Outside the walls, next to the Puerta del Conde, the Municipal Tent is installed, where every day there are live performances by orchestras and musical groups (all free).
Novilladas
In the main square, a craft sewing for bullfighting festivals is built. There are two capeas a day (with the exception of Friday and Saturday) and several at night (Friday and Monday, after 24 h.). They release the bulls one by one to the general public's delight. For four days in a row there are also bullfights starting at 4pm: on Saturday 22 and Tuesday 25, with bullfighters such as Morante de la Puebla or Julián López El Juli, while on Sunday 23 and Monday 24 they participate, without picks, the finalists of the Bullfighting Bag, the contest of young aspirants to be figures of bullfighting that are celebrated the four weekends prior to Carnival. The program also includes a clippings competition, which brings together the best trimmers and jumpers nationwide (Saturday, February 22, at 11 p.m.).
The confinements occur every day at 11 am. and the route of the horned goes from the corrals of the street Agustín de Foxá to the mentioned bullring built for the occasion (approximately, 1 km in length). The most prominent places to enjoy the races are Agustín de Foxá Street, El Registro, Madrid Street or the same square. The most anticipated confinements, and of greater tourist demand, are the Encierro on horseback (Sunday 23, at 11 h.), In which horses, bulls and runners, coming from the open field outside the city walls, walk the streets until they arrive to the square, and the Toro del Aguardiente (Tuesday 25, at 9:00 a.m.), named for because brandy and other products are distributed before a bull is released through the streets of the town.
Costumes
Outside the bullfighting world, costumes and troupes also have their prominence. During the five days of the Carnival, the charangas, with their music and their dances, liven up every corner of Ciudad Rodrigo, while the picturesque and original costumes of the inhabitants and visitors provide their ration of color to the monumental town.
Like any carnival, there is also a parade of floats of the different clubs, which will be concentrated in the Plaza de Herrasti and the Plaza de San Salvador and will cross Julián Sánchez street to the main square of the Plaza Mayor (Monday 24, at 5.30 p.m. .). The Nuevo Fernando Arrabal Theater (Gigantes, 22) will host two masquerade balls, one for adults (Saturday 22, at 7:30 p.m.) and another for children (Sunday 23, at 7:30 p.m.). The complete carnival program at www.ciudadrodrigo.es.
Monumental villa
Between enclosures and parades, it is obligatory to discover the immense monumental and cultural heritage of Ciudad Rodrigo, a strategic enclave throughout the centuries due to its geographical location and witness of important historical events. One of the oldest vestiges is the Vetonian boar of the Plaza del Castillo, which dates from Roman times, and one of the most visited is the Castle of Henry II of Trastámara (1372), whose three-story Tribute Tower houses today the National Tourism Inn. Another of the jewels of the city is the Cathedral of Santa Maria , whose works began in 1165. The Romanesque and Gothic styles coexist with elements of the eighteenth century. The cloister, the Pórtico del Perdón (13th century) and the Choir (15th century) stand out.
Within the two and a half kilometers of the perimeter of the wall (built in 1160, taking advantage of the remains of a Roman wall) there is also a network of narrow, cobbled streets full of palaces and stately homes. Outside the walls, we must not miss the Old Bridge (1770) and La breach (where Napoleon's troops managed to open a hole in the wall during the sieges of 1810 and 1812).
Where to sleep
Parador de Ciudad Rodrigo | Plaza Castillo, 1 | 923 46 01 50 | from 90 euros. At the top of a small hill above the Vega del Águeda river and the town's town center stands the hostel, the former castle of Henry II of Trastámara (14th century). From its elegant Tribute Tower, where some of its 34 rooms are located, you can enjoy wonderful views of the surroundings. The walls and stone arcades move visitors to medieval times. It is located just a few steps from the Cathedral of Santa Maria and the Plaza Mayor.
Hotel Conde Rodrigo I | Plaza San Salvador, 9 | 923 46 14 04 | from 100 euros. Old stone building of the 16th century that belonged to the Cathedral's council and that served as residence for the canons of the time. Decorated with style and classic furniture, it has all the comforts (wifi, air conditioning ...). Located in the historic center, it has a restaurant serving local cuisine and a busy cocktail bar.
Where to eat
Sausages, roasts, Iberian ham, hornazo (kind of stuffed empanada) or typical dish par excellence, fried eggs with farinato (sausage based on breadcrumbs, pork fat, paprika, brandy and anise) characterize the Charra food. The La Paloma Inn (Paloma, 3,923 46 24 41) stands out for its table of Iberian sausages (especially that of Iberian ham). It is ideal both to go snack and eat a more convincing menu (Castilian soup, beef tenderloin, steak ...). Homemade and local food at El Charro (Díez Taravilla, 9. 923 46 00 05), a family and cozy restaurant within the walled city. We must leave room for desserts. In an old palatial house a few steps from the Plaza Mayor is located Mayton (Colada, 9. 633 35 71 73), an inn that stands out for its traditional cuisine. Among its specialties are eggs with farinato, tostón, vegetable stews, beef steak and, also, freshly made desserts, such as rice pudding and French toast. The Pulpería de Evaristo (Correo Viejo, 7. 923 48 06 15) offers seafood and fresh fish for the appetizer.
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