Milan (AFP)

After the sobriety of Max Mara, the flagship brand of Italian ready-to-wear Prada presented Thursday a surreal and glamorous fashion, Fendi opting for a boudoir atmosphere, on the 2nd day of Milan Fashion Week.

In the Prado Foundation Deposito space, the decor designed by the OMA architecture studio in Rotterdam places the public above the podium.

In the arena of this imaginary museum, Miuccia Prada wanted to combine glamor with the intellectual force of the Viennese Secession movement of the beginning of the last century.

"The main reference of this collection is this wonderful time of the Viennese Secession where intellectuals, artists, workers and craftsmen worked together to create something new," she said behind the scenes of the parade, stressing that "it's this demanding fashion" that she tries to produce.

The collection made in the cut with split skirts or jackets, fringed, as passed in the paper shredding machine. For a sophisticated and clean result.

From working girls in ties and shoulder jackets, we move on to looks where transparency reigns, topped with embroidery and precious stones.

- casual DNA -

The brand's casual DNA is also present with more sporty silhouettes dressed in large basketball jumpsuits or jackets inspired by baseball t-shirts.

The fur is synthetic since Prada gave up the use of animal fur and the nylon is recycled.

Floral patterns applied to fluid blouse pants sets add a delicate touch to the collection.

Previously, Max Mara had shown a collection entirely inspired by the navy.

"Very beautiful, very Italian, very Max Mara", enthused the powerful influencer Chiara Ferragni at the microphone of AFP at the end of the parade.

The coat, emblematic piece of the Italian house, is long, to the foot, in cashmere, in sheep or in chic down jacket from Antarctic explorer. A thick drawstring with a nautical noose marks the size of the wraparound dressing gown coats.

The cape, poncho, pea coat and duffle coat variations are embellished with a nylon hood, a technical accessory that twists classic looks. The trick of this season, the work on the sleeves: puffs, frills, which feminize the silhouettes.

Evening wear gives way to the lightness and transparency of the materials enhanced with rhinestones and sequins. We go from a black series at the start of the show to a gray, beige and navy palette to finish with snow white looks.

Prada had done everything to advance its parade in the calendar, at 4:00 p.m. (3:00 p.m. GMT) instead of the end of the day usually, to allow its Chinese customers to connect for the direct without suffering too much from the jet lag.

- Powdery pink -

Fendi for its part presented its new collection in a decor of powder pink velvet, that of a very feminine boudoir.

"To talk about femininity today I wanted to start from the codes that defined it for decades. Pink considered a color of women, veiled fabrics, garter belts, lace, lingerie, the boudoir spirit opposed to the spirit of femininity today, strong, through the gray flannel, the jackets of working women, the biker leather, "explained Silvia Venturini Fendi at the end of the parade.

Left alone at the helm of the creative direction of the Roman house after Karl Lagerfeld's death a year ago, she explores new horizons for the brand. "I wanted to have a very different cast that represented the real woman and not imaginary women. Women with different bodies."

© 2020 AFP