Wines of Cyprus: discovering the traditional varieties of the island of Aphrodite

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Terraced vineyards on the Tsiakkas estate in the Limassol region of southern Cyprus. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

Considered to be one of the oldest in the world, viticulture in Cyprus dates back more than 6,000 years. The country can even boast of owning the oldest wine still in production. However, the wine of the island of Aphrodite remains little known to the general public. For about fifteen years, some sixty producers have been trying to improve their image by focusing on quality. Radio France Internationale invites you to meet some of these passionate people who pass on their know-how from generation to generation and discover native grape varieties.

From our special envoy to Cyprus

A huge tasting room with huge picture windows overlooking a breathtaking mountain landscape. An unobstructed 180 degree view of vineyards and surrounding villages. At this altitude, the visitor has the impression of peacefully dominating the world, or even rubbing shoulders with the gods, almost. Here, everything is calm and serene. And yet, we are on Earth, at the Kolios property, perched more than 1,000 meters above sea level. Its owner, Marios Kolios, greets us on this sunny October morning in an imposing building of village of Agios Photios, in the district of Paphos, one of the two major wine-producing areas in western Cyprus.

The vineyards of the Kolios property, located at over 1,000 meters above sea level, in the Paphos region of western Cyprus. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

A family business

Marios Kolios, slender, past fifty, mustache gray well maintained, bathes in the wine since his childhood. " We have been growing grapes for several generations. In 1972, at the age of 11, I started making wine with my maternal grandparents in an old village further down. We were only producing for family and friends. I started in the wine business only twenty years ago, starting from scratch, here in 1999, "he says, expressing the wish that his three children, in charge of sales with his brother, take one day. Its vineyard covers only 12 hectares. As his grape production remains insufficient, he turns to other winemakers in the area, who provide him with fruit from local grape varieties such as mavro and maratheftiko , old black grape varieties from Cyprus for red wines, xynisteri and spourtiko for whites. It also uses imported varieties such as the famous Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, " but no Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, as unsuited to a terroir at altitude ". And to say with pride: " I do not assemble our traditional grape varieties with these international grapes, arrived in our country since the last 25 years, in order to distinguish the true Cypriot wines from those produced with foreign varieties ".

Markos Kolios, manager of the Kolios property: "The best wine is the one that gives you the most pleasure, not necessarily the most expensive". Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

" My wines are part of me, like my children "

Thanks to the help of the European Union - through the Common Agricultural Policy - which represents 40% of its investments, Marios Kolios produces 300 000 liters of wine a year, an average quantity compared to those of his colleagues: whites, rosés and reds. Wines of Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) that he claims to be able to easily recognize during blind tastings, " because I have their smells and tastes in the mouth every day, they are part of me, as my children .

It exports little and is more aimed at the domestic market, " without spending a penny so far for promotion, " he says, relying on word-of-mouth and firmly believing in the quality of his wines. His secret? A source of natural water flowing in its cellar ...

A handicap that becomes a strong point

" We found this source twenty years ago when we started building the foundations of our building. As the flow was continuous, we had to install a pipe so that the water ends its race outside, "he says. And, what was a handicap has become the highlight of this winery: our winemaker can know the state of the ground at any time thanks to the different strata of rock left visible on a section of wall. A soft rock, limestone, acting like a sponge: it absorbs the rainwater of winter and keeps all the moisture for the summer, which is good for the vine, since the roots here have the peculiarity of s 'sink to a great depth (up to seven meters or more) and naturally find the water, without having to irrigate.

" Do not irrigate is the secret to making good wine in our region , says Marios Kolios. There is already a high concentration of aromas and sugar in the grapes. By irrigating, you will get a larger amount of grapes and these will be much bigger, but you will have a wine too watery. However, the aromas of wine depend on the skilful dosage of the skin and the grape juice used to make it. If you have a lot more juice and less skin, you'll have a lean wine. Conversely, if there is more skin and less juice, you will get a rich, full and generous wine. "

Focus on innovation

Other property, another method. We are still in the western part of Cyprus, on the heights of the surroundings of Paphos, this time at Andreas Makkas. He manages a family domain. He too has been immersed in the wine since toddler, like many producers in the region. His grandfather and his mother were already making wine, he took over the torch in 2007 after the latter's death. The property covers 17 hectares plus vineyards that it rents and operates. An economist by training, he focuses on innovation: " We have developed a software package to manage the vineyard as a whole : a connected vineyard, with a system that will collect the necessary information in order to anticipate or react accordingly. This program is now in a pilot phase. "

Andreas Makkas manages the Makkas property: "Wine is synonymous with sharing. People meet thanks to wine ". Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

A variety full of promise

Andreas Makkas surrounds himself with an oenologist and an agricultural engineer to produce, in 2017, his 330,000 bottles (large and small), about 200,000 liters, all types combined. Twenty percent of this wine is exported to China, Russia, Greece and the United Kingdom, its largest customers. Wines made mainly from native grapes, including promara , used for whites. " The promara almost disappeared. Rediscovered not long ago, we are reviving it. Full of promise, it combines roundness and elegance, "he says. But his bestseller remains a red sold between 5.80 and 6.20 euros in specialty stores and supermarkets and combines two local varieties ( maratheftiko and lefkada ) with Grenache and Syrah. This fusion gives on the palate a very aromatic wine, with a pleasant aftertaste, a hint of cherry, a hint of strawberry and a note of violet.

" Wine is synonymous with sharing "

A warm fifties man, Andreas Makkas masters the art of communication and thinks big. He drives us to his new future installations ... The all terrain vehicle climbs the foothills of a mountain five minutes from the property. In the past, winegrowers used donkeys to reach the peaks on which the vines were planted. " We are on an elevation of 1,150 meters. With a grant from the European Union, via the Common Agricultural Policy, we hope to start work on our ultra-modern four-storey building by the end of the year. We will welcome visitors and partners, we can accommodate them, they will discover our various activities. Because wine is synonymous with sharing. People meet because of the wine, "he says again and again.

From the peaks, the wind is drunk and the view of the sea is magnificent. Andreas Makkas has already planted some vines, of low size, because of the relief and the small surface of the soil. Impossible indeed, on these heights where one has up to 60% of slope, to have ranks of vines well aligned as on flat grounds.

Vines on the Makkas estate, located above 1,150 meters above sea level, in the Limassol region of southern Cyprus. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

A wine estate run by a woman

We leave Paphos for another great wine region: the district of Limassol, in the south of the country. There, on the sunny slopes of the Troodos massif, the most important mountain range of Cyprus, viticulture is practiced in terraces because of the relief, the volcanic soil, the subtropical Mediterranean climate conducive year-round to viticulture.

First step: Olympus, a domain run by a woman. She represents the 6th generation at the head of this establishment. We are in Omodos, one of the picturesque villages of the island. " Founded in 1844, our parent company, Etko *, is still in business, " recalls Olvia Haggipavlu. This smiling, middle-aged forty-year-old "reigns" on a 30-hectare farm and welcomes us with ease in a small lounge with a sober decor. " Evolving in a world of men stimulates me. I always feel the need to learn from others. I am accepted and, I hope, appreciated, "she says modestly. " We are both producers and traders. Depending on the year and weather conditions, we produce 300,000 liters per year, half of which is for export. "

Olvia Haggipavlu, export manager at the Olympus estate, along with her colleague Santiago Martinez Polo, oenologist. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

Work the grape skin

Xynistery accounts for 10% of the 300,000 liters produced by Olympus. We savor it: a fresh white, easy to drink, fruity, with aromas of green apple, pear and anise. He has volume. Structured in the mouth, it presents a pleasant finish. " However, xynistery is a hard grape to work with, because it is not very intense in terms of aromas. To make the most of it, we work the skin of grapes that we leave for two days in our tanks, at low temperature, in order to extract the maximum of flavors ", reveals the oenologist and right hand man of Olvia Haggipavlu, Santiago Martinez Polo, a tall, bearded, dark-skinned, blue-eyed Spaniard.

We turn to red, a maratheftiko of 2016. Its fresh nose reveals an intensity of red fruits and floral notes. In the mouth, it is silky, round, with a good aftertaste that lasts. Not really surprising, since it contains 14.5% alcohol, a very common volumetric rate in Cyprus where the sun and heat give a sweet grape. And since alcohol is the result of processing the sugar in the rain during fermentation, some reds are up to 15.5 degrees. Under these favorable conditions, there is no need to chaptalize, that is to say to add sugar to the grape must before fermentation (a process which makes it possible to increase the degree of alcohol of the wine for a taste balance or for better wine preservation).

These strong wines also correspond to the local taste. " Maratheftiko is the best variety on the island, " believes Santiago Martinez Polo. " We harvest it last to give it time to mature " during the two months of harvest, from September to October, every year.

Wines aged in French and American oak barrels at the Olympus estate in the Limassol region of southern Cyprus. A barrel of French oak costs on average 800 euros. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

Wines of original grape varieties

From cellar to cellar, there is only one step, almost. After a thirty-minute drive, a smiling young woman welcomes us to Zambartas, a pretty little piece of paradise to take the time to enjoy a good drink and contemplate the unobstructed view of the vineyards. Natalia Kataiftsi is the assistant of Markos, the owner of the premises, absent that day.

Markos Zambartas has a degree in oenology in France and continues the work of his father, who founded the estate in 2006. The establishment produces more than 120,000 bottles (about 750 hectoliters) of varietal wines and wines from the country. to the internal market because of the small quantity produced, even though it is shipping to Germany, Switzerland, Poland and Israel.

Lefkada and Vertzami

A particularity of the wines of the Zambartas house? A dark rosé. " To obtain this dress, we keep the grapes and the juice together for forty-eight hours in order to extract the color and the aromas. Then we recover the juice and wait for the fermentation. It is very fresh, very easy to drink, "says Natalia Kataiftsi.

This rosé, unlike any other, comes from a rigorous blend: 40% of a French variety, Cabernet Franc, and 60% of the regional grape, lefkada . " In truth, the leftkada is called vertzami . Lefkada is a Greek island and the vertzami comes from this island. I do not know why in Cyprus it's called lefkada , maybe it's easier, "she says with a smile.

Natalia Kataiftsi works on the Zambartas property: "Our dark rosé is the result of a rigorous blend: 40% of a French variety, Cabernet Franc, and 60% of the regional grape variety, lefkada". Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

Small touches of lemon

Chance is that we meet a young French couple on a honeymoon. Gwendoline and Pierre come from the Pays de la Loire and travel on one of the seven wine routes of the island. " The wine here is quite unusual compared to what we usually drink. We have tested, for example, a surprising white, with small touches of lemon and a lot of freshness. He should be getting married to many of our French dishes. Ditto for red, with wines of character and younger wines , "they say in unison.

" In Cyprus, there are really aromas that are not found in France, " confirms Jade Godmuse, 21, a long-term intern at Zambartas and from the Paris region. " Here, we stay on the traditional production with harvest by hand, the grapes are not shaken, the mountainous terrain does not allow the use of machines anyway ," says this student in engineering school in Rennes, in agri-food specialization. His favorite Cypriot wine? " The mataro yiannoudin, because I really like the reds in the mouth, quite sweet, with good aromas of a little red fruits ; I do not look for acidity in a red. "

Stainless steel tanks for fermentation at the Zambartas property in the Limassol region of southern Cyprus. The duration of fermentation depends on the type of wine you want to make. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

Rough on the attack

We deepen our discovery of native grape varieties. Our route this time leads us to the Tsiakkas property, still in the Limassol district. " My great-grandfather was a producer and a trader. My father founded this establishment in the year of my birth in 1988. I intend to take over, "announces Orestis Tsiakkas. This oenologist has followed an appropriate training in France, in Montpellier and Bordeaux, two cities renowned in this field. " At first we started with a production of 500 bottles," recalls the 30-year-old bearded boy. Today, we are at almost 200,000 a year, or about 1,500 hectoliters of varietal wines, of which 10% to 15% are exported to Germany, Switzerland, the United States and the United Kingdom mainly. "

Without wasting time, we enjoy a red from a single variety, the mavro . " We are the first to do 100% mavro," says our host. Its ruby ​​color reveals the first nose with aromas of strawberry, rose petals, " maybe even chewing gum ". An easy drinking wine, with a bitter edge, mainly because of the tannin. " But if you have something to eat with, that touch of bitterness disappears. Rough on the attack, like many wines in Cyprus, it is reminiscent of Burgundy pinot noir but with a different finish.

Orestis Tsiakkas, oenologist, son of the owner of the house Tsiakkas and amateur of good old Bordeaux, especially Saint-Emilion. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

A lively acidity giving a biting impression

Orestis Tsiakkas now shows us what he calls " The Pearl of Cyprus ". A red destined to age: the yiannoudin , discovered in the vineyard of a named Yiannis, the equivalent of "John" in English, or "Jean" in French. Hence the name of this local varietal wine, usually served in gourmet restaurants. " It has a characteristic scent of nutmeg, black pepper, white pepper too, with a hint of coconut, intense red fruit notes, and even botanical touches ," says our oenologist. Full-bodied, less rough than 100% mavro , its lively acidity gives a biting impression. " This is due to the sunshine of our island. If you plant this variety in France, it will never ripen, because it needs a lot of sun ", analyzes our specialist, amateur of good old Bordeaux, especially the Saint-Emilion.

Grapes drying at the Tsiakkas estate in the Limassol region of southern Cyprus. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

Cypriot wine remains unknown

From one tasting to another, we find that all producers share the same goal: the quest for quality, in order to better publicize their wines and those of their country on all continents. The viticulture on the island of Aphrodite dates back 6,000 years - a cult was even dedicated to Dionysus, the god of wine - and the island has a soil and a favorable climate, certainly, but nowadays Cypriot wine has no international reputation for many reasons.

First, for historical reasons. Cyprus passes under Ottoman domination from 1571 to 1878. Drinking alcohol is a sin according to Islam, during the three centuries of Turkish occupation, the vineyard is reduced to a trickle in favor of a subsistence agriculture. It is therefore impossible to develop the sector while the other European countries are progressing in winemaking during this time. It was only under British rule, from 1878 to 1969, that the Cypriots began to make wine again, but the quality is not yet at the rendezvous. Then Cyprus joined the European Union in 2004. " By joining this free trade zone, we were beginning to lose control of our market, because mass-imported wines were much higher than ours, " said Orestis Tsiakkas. .

A drop of water in the ocean

The area of ​​the island (9,250 km2, of which 3,355 km2 in the northern part militarily occupied by Turkey since 1974) and the mountainous terrain also explain the small area of ​​the Cypriot vineyard. It covers just 8,000 hectares in the "free" part of the country, according to the Cypriot Ministry of Agriculture.

This relief does not allow a huge production: 110,000 hectoliters in 2017-2018, a drop of water in the ocean. (For comparison, France produced 35.6 million hectoliters in 2017, according to the latest official figures from Customs.)

Even though the country has only 0.86 million inhabitants (1, 2 million including the North), Cyprus has to import wine to meet domestic demand and satisfy more and more foreign tourists. The numbers speak for themselves. In 2016-2017, imports of wines amounted to 149,422 hectoliters, against 4,218 hectoliters exported!

" The imported wines come mainly from France, Italy and Greece, " says Olvia Haggipavlu, interviewed previously. Member of the Cyprus Wine Producers' Association, " which brings together 45 of the country's 60 producers ," she adds, " For a decade, we have been importing wines from Latin America and Australia ."

Competition from the countries of the New World

Like the old producing countries like France, Italy, Germany, Spain and Portugal, Cyprus - historical producer - has to face the competition of the New World countries such as Argentina, Chile , the United States, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Although their viticultural activity dates back less than half a century, these distant regions are experiencing a spectacular wine boom by offering quality international grape wines, at affordable prices.

" Cypriot wines are more expensive than foreign wines. Consumers think twice before putting their hands in their pockets, even if they are attracted by what seems exotic to them. In addition, let's not forget that we are still feeling the effects of the 2012 economic crisis that hit our island, particularly in 2013, "said Dr. Thoukis Georgiou, a Francophone and Francophile oenologist. " Because France is the reference in wine and because Louis Pasteur, with his studies on fermentation, was the father of oenology, " he proclaims with a smile.

Thoukis Georgiou runs a branch of the Ministry of Agriculture based in Limassol, southern Cyprus. This departmental appendix also carries out applied research and also has an experimental vineyard. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

Strategic plans

A burgundy enthusiast, Thoukis Georgiou runs a branch of the Cypriot Ministry of Agriculture based in Limassol. The agency oversees all stages in the wine sector, from production to consumption through quality control and fraud prevention. She represents Cyprus at the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV), provides advice and recommendations, implements national and European policy in this area, reviews applications for grants. " These subsidies come from the Common Agricultural Policy, the CAP, and the Cypriot state is responsible for distributing them. The system is the same for all countries of the European Union. We draw up strategic plans, approved by Brussels. Each member is allocated a financial envelope. Cyprus receives 4.6 million euros a year in aid for the wine sector , "says Georgiou Thoukis.

Gas Chromatograph

Beyond its administrative and representation missions, this appendix of the Ministry of Agriculture conducts research and has for this purpose a state-of-the-art laboratory equipped with state-of-the-art equipment such as this gas chromatograph. (made in Japan) used to measure volatile substances, aromas of wines and alcoholic products. Used in analytical chemistry, the machine can estimate the quality of a product. Next to it, there is a liquid chromatograph, which is used to measure the fixed substances of the wine, which can be tasted.

True center of applied research, this dependence of the ministry also has an experimental vineyard. For example, the adaptation of certain indigenous grape varieties to American rootstocks is being studied, although so far, in Cyprus, the vines are planted with free rein. The roots of American rootstocks are more resistant than phylloxera roots in European vines. This species of Hemiptera insect, a kind of aphid native to America, attaches to the roots of vine plants to suck the sap.

This research may one day give birth to a precious nectar that will make Cypriot wine shine everywhere. Meanwhile, the Ministry of Agriculture, we prefer to stay on the concrete by betting on the Commandaria , the most famous wine of the island.

Clusters of grapes that are dried on wire at the experimental vineyard of the Cypriot Ministry of Agriculture in Limassol, south of the island. Kèoprasith Souvannavong / RFI

" The oldest wine in the world still in production "

A flagship of Cyprus wines, the Commandaria is a sweet wine of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), positioned in a niche market in commercial terms. Its biggest foreign consumers are Russians, British and ... Chinese, recently. Its production area is well defined. It is made only in 14 villages, from two varieties of grapes: xinistery and mavro . It can be either a 100% xinistery or a 100% mavro , or a combination of both. The grapes are harvested late and dried in the sun, on sheets or nets spread in the middle of the vines, to enhance its sugar content, which gives it a subtle flavor of almost half-cooked wine, aged at least two years in Oak barrels. Cypriots love to present it as "the oldest wine in the world still in production", even "the first of the wines of Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC)"! The Association of Cyprus Wine Producers works for its UNESCO World Heritage designation.

When the big story meets the little

Originally, this nectar was called Nama . Its current name dates back to the twelfth century when the Crusaders settled in Cyprus to liberate the Holy Land. They divided the island into commanderies, which produced wine. Since then, the Nama has been renamed Commandaria . Richard I of England, said "Heart of Lion" (1157-1199) would have celebrated his conquest of Cyprus with Commandaria declaring that it was " the wine of the kings and the king of the wines ". What makes Thoukis Georgiou say that " drinking Commandaria , the traditional Cypriot wine, is traveling back in time, in a vineyard that has never been attacked by phylloxera ".

For the record, it is the Cypriot grapes, mavro and xinistery , exported to France that, between the 1860s and 1880s, helped save the vineyards of many French regions then decimated by phylloxera. Nowadays, we still find in Bordeaux grape varieties from Cyprus such as this black variety called the "negrette".

* Etko is one of the 4 largest cooperatives in the country with Keo, Loel and Sodap. In addition to wine, they produce beer, spirits, etc.

▶ Read: Cyprus: meeting organic pioneers