When Jesper Johnsson shoulders the touring skis early in the morning and trudges through the snow to the gondola, Stockholm's high society still sleeps. The captains have chosen Åre as their favorite winter resort, but the locals have not yet adopted the rhythm of life of the locals. While Johnsson climbs from the mountain station to the 1420-meter-high summit of Åreskutan, the lights and lights in the hotel rooms and chalets are gradually coming to an end.

Åre - pronounced "ear" - wakes up and somehow always seems a bit sleepy. Compared to the hustle and bustle of Austrian ski resorts, Sweden's most famous ski resort in the province of Jämtland northwest of Östersund is a health resort.

Smoke rises from the chimneys of colorful farmhouses into the freezing cold air. The espresso machine hisses in Åre Kafferosteri. Owner Eva Gefvert Nordell and her husband brew their own roast, with which the Swedish barista masters won the "Word Roast Cup". On the frozen Åresjön lake, cross-country skiers make their tracks at dawn against the backdrop of snow-crested hilltops.

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Ski World Cup resort Åre: Sweden's top address

But the people of Stockholm not only love Åre as a holiday resort, they also come to stay longer. "Because they no longer feel like the hustle and bustle of the city," says Johanna Schalander. She is one of those who have given up their well-paid job in the capital to start another life in Åre: active, nature-loving, laid back. "Around Åre start-ups sprout up, young people open shops and restaurants," says Schalander of the boom in Jämtland.

Ultimate dare for adrenaline junkies

Johnsson is one of the young entrepreneurs. Together with the brother of the Swedish freestyle champion Henrik Harlaut he founded the company Åreguiderna. Johnsson and Philip Harlaut offer snowmobile tours, curling events, cross-country skiing and ski touring. Such as the one at Åreskutan. There Johnsson makes a stopover in the tiny, almost completely covered by a snowpower Toppstugan hut before he tackles the departure.

The "Baksidan" area is considered the best freeride terrain in Sweden, the steep "Östra Ravin" as the ultimate test of courage for adrenaline junkies. Not because it is steep, but because of the challenging snow. "We call it cauliflower snow," says Johnsson.

Warm, humid air from the Gulf Stream mixes with cold polar air in northwestern Sweden and likes to cover the mountains with a mix of snow and ice that looks like cauliflower. The mostly easy and intermediate slopes are perfectly groomed and easy to handle. Just like those down to the ski hut Buustamons Fjällgård.

A total of 89 runs belong to the ski resort network of Åre, Björnen and Duved. The highest of the 42 lifts ends at the summit altitude of 1274 meters at Åre Topp Platå, which is modest for alpine conditions. No one comes out of breath here. At best, the panorama with wide, lofty valleys is breathtaking. Nearly 900 meters below one lies the place.

Underground World Cup pistes

Sometimes reindeer pull over the summit ridge of the 1300 meter high Västerskutan. Just below it starts the slopes that host the Alpine World Ski Championships between 5 and 17 February. They all end in the stadium above Åresjön Lake. To ensure that holidaymakers can commute from one part of the ski area to the other during the World Ski Championships, they were tunnelled underground. "Along the slopes, tourists can also watch the races up close," says World Cup sports director Anders Sundqvist.

During the World Cup, Åre will be turning up with live concerts around the World Cup arena for the expected 120,000 spectators. Apart from that, it's all in a serene atmosphere in restaurants like the Brasserie Wersén, the Vinbaren wine cellar or the Uvisan cocktail bar - with the exception of the Swedish after-ski après-ski. Hotel Fjällgården in the middle of the ski resort is Sweden's hotspot. Hundreds celebrate there in the afternoons with beer, schnapps and live music.

The wild party lasts only one or two hours. Then the safety-conscious Swedes drive down to the village. Most good with the old rack railway. Those who ski on skis wear at least helmet and back protectors.