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At the foot of the Acropolis, the olive trees on Philopappou hill recall the historic bond that unites Greek cuisine with olive oil. - Jean-Claude Urbain

If Athena gave its name to their city, the Athenians claim more of their half-brother, Dionysus. The inhabitants of the Greek capital prefer the god of ecstasy and intoxication to the ancient goddess of wisdom. In the taverns of Athens, each meal looks like a gourmet ceremony. Under the high patronage of the sacrosanct olive oil, Greek cuisine is a concentrate of Mediterranean flavors, spiced with aromatic herbs.

Before sitting down to eat, however, some misunderstandings must be corrected. When we talk about Hellenic cuisine, dolma- stuffed vine leaves , hummus chickpeas and cakes stuffed with baklava nuts come to mind spontaneously. Mistake ! All these specialties are oriental. The first two are Turkish and the third Lebanese.

Once served, a Greek coffee does not stir! The quantity of sugar desired is indicated when ordering. - DR

A morning institution

The proximity of Greece to Turkey has always facilitated gastronomic exchanges. But don't tell a Greek that he drinks Turkish coffee! This drink is inseparable from the local rhythm of life. Unfiltered, it requires long minutes of patience before being tasted. Athenians, who are not used to eating early in the morning, often eat it for breakfast. As a result, their stomachs start to complain in the middle of the morning. The mission of the koulouri is to calm them down. This round bread covered with sesame seeds is sold on every street corner. The serious things, they do not really begin until mid-afternoon ... Greece is the European country where meals are the latest.

Spoiled for choice

At around 3 p.m., bellies that have been growling for a long time are on the warpath. Fortunately, in a city as lively as Athens, chance often gets it right. So do not hesitate to trust him when making a bomb. Occupied in the Ottoman era by a huge bazaar, the Monastiraki district has lost none of its oriental character. In its innumerable taverns, hostilities therefore begin with a mezze which, as everywhere in the Levant, consists of an assortment of varied entrees. This farandole of flavors is led by the inevitable Greek choriatiki salad , composed of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives and feta . The eggplant salad, the fried squid, the stuffed peppers, the pastourma cold cuts , the puff pastry with tiropita cheese and other tzatziki cucumbers are part of this multicolored, hearty and inexpensive introduction.

The mezze, a colorful assortment of appetizers, is traditionally sprinkled with aniseed ouzo served very fresh. - Jean-Claude Urbain

Dionysian banquets

A few glasses of ouzo , the national aniseed aperitif, are essential before considering the main course. Between the souvlaki kebabs , the keftédès minced meatballs , and the emblematic mutton moussaka , the carnivores are spoiled for choice. But fish lovers are not to be outdone. Greece has always been turned towards the sea. On the port of Piraeus, we feast on mullet, sea bream and crustaceans in crowded rooms, rocked by melodies of bouzouki mandolin . After these feasts, gourmets meet in the bohemian district of Anafiotika to share a pastry or a honey yogurt. Hanging on the sides of the Acropolis, this labyrinth of alleys is an urban island where coffee terraces flourish. And while the marc slowly settles at the bottom of their cup, the Athenians with their full stomachs are already thinking about the feast that awaits them at 10 p.m. for dinner!

The Hotel Grande-Bretagne is a popular address for Athenian parties. At dusk, its rooftop bar-restaurant offers a magical view of the city. - Jean-Claude Urbain

Trip

France seen from above, time for an air cruise aboard a hot air balloon

Trip

Corsica: A breath of fresh air on the GR20, hiking superlatives

Housing

Ideally located on Syntagma Square, Great Britain has been the benchmark for Athenian hotels since 1874. This 5-star establishment with very aristocratic charm is the address of heads of state and celebrities passing through the capital. A meal on its rooftop terrace is a delicious experience.

Restore

Since Antiquity, olive oil, wine and peach have been at the heart of the Greek identity. Proud of this heritage, chef Lefteris Lazarou dedicates his Varoulko restaurant to seafood. His very creative menu gives pride of place to seasonal fish and vegetables. Located on the water's edge, on the Piraeus marina, the establishment is not only traditional, but also innovative. In 2002, he was the first ambassador of Greek cuisine to receive a Michelin star.

To do

From the street vendor of koulouri to the shops of aromatic herbs, pastourma and olive oil, via the central market, the Athens Food Tour is a total experience. Organized by Athens Walking Tours, this gastronomic journey explores the hidden side of the city, discovering the best of Greek cuisine. After having tasted all the local flavors, it is possible to learn how to make some specialties during a cooking lesson. In the Klimataria tavern, Maria Sotou passionately transmits recipes based on simplicity. An initiation which traditionally ends with a feast!

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