Concerns for the linen industry in Normandy

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A flax field in Tilly-la-Campagne, Normandy (illustration image). MYCHELE DANIAU / AFP

By: Thomas-Sean de Saint Leger Follow

With 50% of international production, the Normandy region is the world champion of linen. A lucrative sector but very dependent on exports to Asian countries. China and India, where the majority of the spinning mills where flax is made into clothing are located, account for 80% of orders between them. As a result of the current health crisis, in particular traffic restrictions, the sector is idling and worried about its future.

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Usually, with a profitability three times higher than that of wheat, flax is the golden straw of his mixed farming operation, but this year Richard Bellengréville will have to do without the income from this lucrative and relatively not very time-consuming: "  The Chinese were our biggest buyers," explains the farmer based in Baromesnil (Seine-Maritime). As they no longer buy, we can no longer transform our flax, which means that the flax produced last year will not be worked until next year. What has been sown this year will be worked on in two years. We will have to find a lot of storage means to be able to keep all this culture  . ”

With large stocks, Richard Bellengréville also expects to see his production lose value: “  We recently received letters telling us that the price would fall perhaps by half. Good flax that sold for four euros a kilo last year will be worth two euros next year  . ”

One solution: the relocation of spinning mills

In this context, there is the question of dependence on exports, with the solution of the relocation of spinning mills, desired by many producers in the region, and more broadly by an entire ecosystem: "  Today, we would be able to put spinning mills back in place and working the flax , says Jérôme Lefrançois, manager of an agricultural cooperative. We have the know-how, but we no longer have the capacity since the factories closed . "

The relocation of spinning mills is the idea recently brought before the Minister of Agriculture by five elected officials, including Xavier Batut, MP (LREM) for Seine Maritime. According to him, in addition to protecting a sector that brings together 4,000 producers and 1,000 employees in Normandy, this would make it possible to respond to several challenges of the moment: "  It is a culture that has little direct impact on the environment, outside the CO2 footprint due to exports of tow to Asia and then to imports of finished products. This crisis highlights the desire of the French to consume " Made in France " in the short chain, so there is a real issue around the linen sector.  "

Also under study, a diversification of outlets: in addition to the textile sector, flax could for example replace plastic or even be used in the automotive industry.

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