Burgundian winegrowers did not take off. Faced with a project to revise the appellation area of the AOC Bourgogne, examined on Thursday by the national committee of Inao which manages French agricultural appellations, they denounce the amputation of "entire sectors of historic Burgundy" . The new delimitation proposed by the National Institute of Origin and Quality (Inao) would thus lead to "removing 64 communes of Burgundy from the production area of the AOC Bourgogne", in particular in the Chablis sectors, from Dijon and the north of the Côte-d'Or, Burgundian professional organizations are alarmed.
The Inao project, on the other hand, would maintain half of the Beaujolais municipalities which can already claim the appellation today, or forty out of 386 that make up wine-growing Burgundy, which has completely ignited the powder. “Burgundy is Burgundy. And Beaujolais is Beaujolais ", hammer in the heart, since the end of January, winemakers and elected officials from Côte-d'Or, Saône-et-Loire and Yonne, fearing a relocation of production, an overproduction and ultimately a decline in the image and the price of burgundy.
A first step only
The winegrowers are however at the origin of this request for revision, a file opened in 2000: "Burgundy has never completed its delimitation work initiated in 1937", a situation "which has become problematic today", explain their representatives. . Today we are in the study phase ", tempers Gilles Flutet, head of the Inao's Territories and Delimitation service, who wants to be reassuring: if it was validated on Thursday, the project would not be immediately" included in the marble ”and“ all claims would be studied ”during a public consultation.
To establish this new delimitation, the manager highlights the need to "work on objective criteria", without being limited to the soil and grape variety. "The mission of the experts is to define what wine-growing Burgundy is" and are based on elements "linked to the natural environment, but also to practices and uses," he explains. The zones which would leave the appellation area choose to use "very little" the Burgundy AOC, underlines Gilles Flutet, who takes as an example the preference often given to the Chablis AOC in Yonne.
Burgundy areas for centuries
Arguments that go wrong with winegrowers. "It is difficult to understand how we can propose to exclude from Burgundy producers who have been there for centuries," says Thiébault Huber, president of the Confederation of appellations and winemakers of Burgundy. We must “bury” this proposal, the criteria of which are “strictly unacceptable” before “reviewing the working method with Inao to co-construct the delimitation dossier”, he asserts.
Burgundy winegrowers are calling for a meeting on Thursday outside the Inao headquarters in Montreuil (Seine-Saint-Denis) where the national committee will discuss the revision project.
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