- SPORT.Portugal: a route through the best waves of the Vicentine Coast
- SURF: Why Nazaré has the biggest waves in the world
They are the waves. Those gigantic that break in Praia do Norte , which in 2011 became famous when the Hawaiian Garret McNamara surfed for the first time one above 20 meters high. They presented in society to this small village, 100 kilometers north of Lisbon , in the Central Portugal region, traditionally of fishermen and little used to flashes and cameras. But he is already enjoying it, because there are more and more surfers. Last year, the Brazilian Rodrigo Koxa exceeded the world record, riding on 24.38 meters. And in November Nazaré will once again host the most important surfing championship in the world.
Surfing has always been part of this privileged place where the waves can exceed 30 meters "and although there are not always large ones, it is a good spot to train," explains Paulo Peixe of Nazaré Surf School. The fault lies with a large submarine canyon , 230 kilometers long and five deep, which extends from the Berlangas Islands to Praia do Norte de Nazaré. It is the biggest geomorphological accident in Europe, a continental plate fault that alters the height of the waves.
But Nazaré is not just surfing. It is a declaration of contrasts between north and south, calm and intensity, past and present, history and legends ... A window to simple and traditional lives and another to the untamed and adventurous. « It is a city that lives all year . He always has something to entertain and dazzle, ”says Cristina Luz, Tourism Technician at Nazaré.
To see these contrasts live, just arrive at the viewpoint of the fort of San Miguel Arcángel, on the Promontory. Facing the sea, a look to the right and the giant giant waves roar, from Praia do Norte along two kilometers. A look to the left and families and walkers who walk peacefully along another couple of kilometers of white sand of Praia da Nazaré who seek the shade of the colorful awnings arranged in order or who walk along the Marginal, the seafront. Calm versus storm.
LIVING TRADITIONS
For its part, the Mannerist style fort is an antithesis of the flirty red lighthouse, built almost 400 years later. Inside, the original stone wall is dotted with the vibrant colors of the surf myths boards, from that of McNamara himself to that of the Brazilian Maya Gabeira , the first distinguished woman with a Guinness record.
Outside the fort some sculptural seagulls by Mário Reis are anchored with the parapet of the viewpoint, in the same style as the illustrations on a large panel that decorates the funicular station, with the most symbolic elements of Nazaré: seagulls, fish, lighthouse , fort, waves and surf. On the way to the fortress , a sculpture by Adália Alberto represents a man with a deer head and a surfboard. It is a tribute to D. Fuas Roupinho, who hunted the area, chasing a deer. He was saved from falling down the cliff , attributing the miracle to the Virgin, so he ordered a sanctuary to be built in O Sítio.
From there, the Marginal offers a parallel walk to the kilometer-long beach of Nazaré, which, in the form of a half moon, is a prelude to the lower city, full of restaurants and shops. Here the essence of Nazaré is breathed and it is not uncommon to meet women dressed in traditional dress, of seven skirts they wore while they waited for their fishermen husbands. «To avoid the cold they put one skirt on another, simulating a single saya with seven layers», Cristina tells us. Although some say that the idea was to resemble the dresses of the court, pronounced hips.
ONE FUNICULAR, TWO WORLDS
On Praia de Nazaré, the octopus dryers, sardines and horse mackerel (the famous carapau ) are the authentic museum of the trade, which complements the Museo do Peixe Seco. Women slaughter, who maintain this ancient technique by salting and letting the fish dry in the sun to preserve it. Today, the trade is at risk. Isaura tells us from the municipal market, where she sells dried fish: «We are the third generation and we want to keep this art, which has been in the family since 1928». On one side of the dryers, like a slap back to the present, they coexist with the soccer and beach volleyball courts.
Few people know it but it is worth getting lost in the narrow streets of the fishermen's neighborhood , in the lower town. Old house , of minimum dimensions, with windows and clotheslines with hanging sheets and also very careful shops and restaurants. Fish and seafood dishes are the star, as in all of Portugal. Going from the lower town or the beach to O Sítio is now easy, not as before, whose slope of about 110 meters was on foot. The funicular is the second oldest in Portugal (almost 130 years).
At sunset, the sun closes, when it falls behind the promontory, turning the sand even more golden and illuminating the facades of the houses of the lower city, which seem painted with the most unpolluted white.
PRACTICAL GUIDE
Drop down
How to get. Iberia, TAP, Air Europa and Easyjet fly from Madrid to Lisbon from 82 euros. From there, you can rent a car or take a bus (12 euros).
Where to sleep. Hotel Mar Bravo, on the beachfront. From 119 euros / night.
Where to eat. Casa Pires-A Sardinha , family restaurant with good fish and seafood, on the Site. On the other hand, Taberna d'Adelia offers traditional dishes.
More information. In the websites of Tourism of Portugal and Tourism of the Municipal Chamber of Nazaré.
According to the criteria of The Trust Project
Know more- Portugal
- tourism
2060 THE NEWTON HOSTELThe apocalyptic and Madrid hostel that prepares you to live the end of the world
ESCAPADA This is Trieste, the least Italian city in Italy
ENOTURISMORuta by the DO Ribera del Duero most unknown