Paris Fashion Week: feminists, night owls and memes

Christian Dior shows fashion for women, Saint Laurent has clothes for disco queens and Jacquemus delivers material for the internet. The highlights of day one and two of the Paris Fashion Week.

To continue her fashion feminism next fall, Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to England this time. Chiuri found out about the "Teddy Girls", the long-neglected female counterpart to the wild guys in Tweed, the British answer to Rock'n'Roll and James Dean. The conceptual superstructure was provided by the artist Tomaso Binga and the author Robin Morgan. Binga recited one of her poems at the beginning of the show, and Morgan book titles such as "Sisterhood is Global" serve as prints for the statement shirts that made Chiuri popular.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior Autumn-Winter 2019

For Dior ratios, the collection was comparatively little prinzessinnenhaft. With vichy checks in red and green, long skirts made of heavy cloth, wide black leather belts, pointed shoes and white socks, Chiuri quoted the clothing style of her models from England in the fifties. Also in the double-breasted blazers the Teddy template became clear.

For her jackets and coats Chiuri used a lot of patent leather. Slip-on jackets and a quilted-plastic one-piece dress add a modern twist, while denim in the form of pleated skirts looks cool. On their heads, the models wore the fashionable fishing hats. The extra large lapels are also picking up a trend.

Saint Laurent

On the catwalk of the Saint-Laurent show, the lapel was not oversized. The shoulders, designer Anthony Vaccarello made them big and wide, as in the 1980s. Otherwise, the contrast could not have been clearer. For Vaccarello, a strong woman is always one that shows a lot of skin: transparent tops, low necklines, tuxedos without anything under them (but with a cummerbund), skimpy shorts and miniskirts still and holes.

Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent Autumn-Winter 2019

Here comes the evening wear not at the end like other labels. At Saint Laurent under Vaccarello, there is only the night and she is wild and wicked. For clarity, part of the Saint-Laurent collection was shown under black light.

For the men, the Italian demonstrated that lines on suit fabric do not necessarily have to be pinstriped thin. Leather jackets, silk shirts, pants and plush coats were also striped, lengthways and across, mostly black and white. Interestingly enough, the party uniforms for the men are all opaque.

Jacquemus

The fashion of Simon Porte Jacquemus is not made for excesses, but for sunbathing on the Côte d'Azur. The rising star of Parisian fashion heaven set up a southern France-on-land backdrop for the presentation of his fall collection and named his Potemkin village "Place Jacquemus". The inhabitants of the village strolled in vigorous (pink, blue, orange) and muted colors over the "market square".

Jacquemus

Jacquemus Autumn-Winter 2019

Jacquemu's origin, he comes from Provence, has been the inspiration for his designs over the years. That was a bit monotonous at last. The designer had to prove that he can do more. Therefore, this time there were no sex bombs in airy clothes, less pastel shades, more fabric. The cuts are not as body-like as in previous collections. These outfits can be worn in the office.

The designer's accessories often set fire to a social media fireworks display. Last year, huge straw hut and basket bags provided the meme material that social media and fashion brands live on. Currently Instagram is papered with probably the smallest (and most impractical) handbag in the world. Conspicuous, however, were the shoes. A pair of pumps looked like it was swollen with their feet inside, and ugly rubber blocks made Jacquemus sexy overknees. A successful appearance.

Paris Fashion Week: feminists, night owls and memes

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