Elio Berhanyer, the last great 'couturier'

It belonged to a more elegant period, in which the women who sat on the barrier in the bulls wore pamela, three rounds of pearls, gloves and fresh flower punctured in the sun


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Elio Berhanyer, in the spring-summer 2010 parade of his signature at the Cibeles Catwalk. Photo: GETTY

The unforgettable moments that Elio Berhanyer has given to fashion

It belonged to a more elegant period, in which the women who sat on the barrier in the bulls wore pamela, three turns of pearls, gloves and fresh flower punctured in the lapel of his suit jacket. As, for example, the American actress Ava Gardner , whom he dressed on occasion. Or like Cayetana Alba and Aline Romanones, Quintanilla at the time, before she confessed that she had been a spy dressed in red.

Elio Berhanyer (Eliseo Berenguer, Córdoba 1931), who died at the age of 89 in Madrid, was the last survivor of the golden age of Spanish sewing that began at the end of the very long postwar Spanish period, back in the 50s, and that would continue to triumph two or three more decades, along with names like Cristóbal Balenciaga, Pedro Rodríguez, Pertegaz, Carmen Mir, Asunción Bastida, Marbel, Herrero and Ollero, The Floating Dock and Santa Eulalia, for example.

He was the only one with Balenciaga and Pertegaz to be, also, a prophet in his land and outside of it, especially in the United States, where he showed his collections with two identical Sevillan twins, Natividad and Ana María Abascal, whom he discovered eating ice cream in Torremolinos, to the delight of Carmel Snow, the legendary director of 'Harpers Bazaar'.

Berhanyer liked Spanish women from the beginning, since he understood them better than anyone else and he embellished them better than anyone, from the time of his shy minidisfiles in Elizabeth Arden's beauty salon in Madrid's Plaza de la Independencia with its emblematic door red These women, whose daughters would later dream of their famous prêt-à-porter models, the 'elioramas'.

But with the passage of time and the arrival of less elegant times, the disappearance of gloves, hats and three rows of pearls, Berhanyer , who remained true to his principles, met, despite his 'licensing', a period of sunset that did not get out despite his comeback on the catwalk Cibeles.

Knight until the end, I always remember him with his impeccable manners in the cocktails and dinners orchestrated by Jean-Louis Mathieu with his great friend and collaborator Charo Montarco and the jeweler Luis Gil.

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REF: https://www.elmundo.es/yodona/moda/2019/01/24/5c499ae0fdddff16678b45e6.html